Koguchi to Nachi Waterfall, Day 7

Today was the biggest hike of the Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage route.  It was 14.5 km, which sounds like a lot, but in miles it is only about 8.8 miles, not a huge amount, except that we had to climb over 3,500 feet in elevation.  We were up at 5:30 am, breakfast at 6:00 am, departed the inn/old middle school at 6:45 am.  We stopped by a convenience store for some snacks and begn a steady climb up.  I told Betsy it was like climbing Dog Mountain in the Columbia River Gorge.  Although, by the end of the day it felt considerably harder.  The uphill portions were hard work but the stepping was easy over tree roots and rocks.  

The downhill portions were more strenous, stressful and required concentration.  The rocks were frequently moss covered, slippery and laid flat to a very steep angle.  Jamie said these "paving" like areas were provided to give traction for horses and a way to avoid deep mud in days past.  We haven't seen a horse and they are no longer used on the trail.  

The other notable trail side sighting were egg shaped rocks which are remanents of volcanic action called "onion stones."

By mid-afternoon we arrived at the second of the 3 major shrines (Kumano Nachi Taisha) which is located next to the highest waterfall in Japan.  

We walked an additional 2 km around the site visiting the temple, the shrine, numerous other buildings and then down to a taxi stand.  

We took a taxi to the main sea coast town of Nachikatsuura; then caught a water taxi to our hotel (Hotel Nakanoshima) which is located just off shore on a small island.  The onsen has 3 outdoor pools of slightly different temperatures.  The hottest pool is directly fed by a bubbling, burping underground spring of heated water.  We took baths and a soak before dinner.  The men's side was quite nice with a view of the night sky.  Of course, one has to get accustomed to walking around and lounging in the pools naked.  This is preceeded by a complete wash down sitting in a small stool.  One must be clean before entering the communal or shared waters.  Dinner was enjoyable with a full range of small plates and samples of things.  The food is healthy and nourishing.