Thursday, March 26, 2026

Day 7 Buenos Aires via Hop-on, Hop-off Bus Tour

Wednesday, March 25th -- A free-form Hop-on, Hop-off Bus tour of the city.  We walked toward the Recoleta neighborhood and had breakfast at a congenial cafe, Le Pain Quotidian.  We then wandered around for quite awhile trying to find the "red-line" tourist bus stop.  We connected at 11 am and started on a slow ride through congested city streets accompanied by decent narrative.  We sat on the upper deck and were able to get some photos of the buildings, and other sites.  We toured most of the neighborhoods from the upscale commercial districts to the lively but seedy artsy district of  La Boca.  

After passing through the Puerto Madero, we decided to deboard and visit the adjacent nature reserve.  After walking a ways to the entrance of the reserve, we walked out to the river and then around an inland lagoon, searching for birds, in particular, and other wildlife.

Basilica Nuestra SeƱora del Pilar, built in 1732.  Next to the Recoleta Cemetery.

Plumeria tree we admired while waiting for the bus.

One of the many statues and monuments to famous Argentinians scattered throughout the parks and green spaces of Buenos Aires.  The city seems to have many such parks and green spaces.
This is Monumento a Carlos Pellegrini.

Embassy of France.

Teatro Colon, the famous opera house.

On one corner of the opera house.

The Obelisk celebrating Argentine's independence from Spain.

One of two sides of the Health Ministry Building with Eva on the outside.  The story goes that when people first saw this they wondered why Eva was "eating a hamburger."  This is the angry looking Eva talking into a microphone.  The smiling version is on the other side of the building and was posted in an earlier blog.

Central government area.

The President's House - Casa Rosada.  It has a balcony where Eva gave speeches.

Tallest clock tower in the city atop the Congress Building.

One of the murals that decorate the San Telmo and La Boca neighborhoods, which were settled by Italians immigrants and later became artistic, creative areas.

Ditto.

In the middle of La Boca, there is one of two significant soccer stadiums in Buenos Aires.  Argentinians take the game very seriously.

More murals

A bit difficult to see, but this is typical overhead wiring, probably communication lines.

The corner of this building resembles the bow of a ship.

Two bridges, one historic which became a National Monument (the silver colored one in front) and one newer one that replaced the first bridge, which was built in 1940.  They cross the Matanza River, which is the southern border of the city.  On the other side is the Buenos Aires Province.

A typical fruit market.

Palacio Canale, a factory that made Bizcochos Canales, a wafer-like cookie, now housing government offices.

Maqueta Barrio La Boca - constructed of tin, etc and painted by residents.

The Women's Bridge.  It pivots on the center, conical pier.  The endpoints of the moveable part are the two other cylindrical piers.

We have now arrived at the nature reserve - Pargue Natural Y Reserva Ecological Costanera Sur.  This is a Side-necked Turtle, I think, about 2 feet wide.

Betsy and I walked around one inland lagoon which had views out in the ocean estuary.  Note the ocean- going ship on the horizon.

The nature reserve was a surprising place to find.  It occupies a vast piece of land that was cut by the port development in the creation of 4 large interconnected, rectangular basins and two entries.  (The post did not last long as a freight harbor since it had to be dredged regularly and was replaced by a bigger facility further west.)  The Buenos Aires Yacht Club is located in one basin, with plenty of room for a line of sailboats.  On the west side of the water are the historic brick port buildings, now offices, and the like, and on the other side of the water  there is a dual highway and some very tall buildings (see photo below).  The nature reserve occupies part of the land further east toward the ocean.  The port area is named Puerto Madero.

Context for the nature reserve's location next to the Port and the city.

The nature reserve is noted for its many birds and other wildlife, most of which we did not see on our walk.  Although we did startle a very large reptile, which turned out to be an Argentina Black and White Tegu (see photo taken from the Web).  We were on an elevated walkway and the Tegu immediately hustled off under the nearby vegetation, but its size and coloration was observed.

Argentina Black and White Tegu.

All of the potential birds reported as present in the nature reserve.

Some sort of contraption that chews up the duck weed (or what ever it is called in Argentina).

Green Parakeets that we did see just outside the nature reserve.

We re-boarded the bus and continued on the rest of its route, though it did not follow the route shown in the map.  The traffic was congested and we moved slowly.  We passed some notable sights -- River Stadium, home of the other local soccer team, a planetarium, a horse racetrack and polo grounds (no meets scheduled while we are in town), and numerous parks.

We also went by the Floralis Generica - named in homage to all flowers.  Twenty meters high, this aluminum and steel sculpture unveiled in 2002 is "probably the world's first mobile public sculpture to be controlled by hydraulic and photoelectric sensors."  It opens at 8 am and closes at midnight.

We got off the bus at a bus stop nearest our hotel and walked a half-mile back to the hotel, passing through an area with numerous practical shops (as opposed to touristy gift places), restaurants and residences.  We spotted a pizza place that looked promising and we returned there after cleaning ourselves up.  We ordered a "medium" pizza with two different sides and a big salad.  Our friendly waiter dressed and served up the salad and later brought us a "small"pizza with the same toppings - free.  He must have thought we looked famished, although we were mostly thirsty after a long day in the sun.  The pizza was very tasty.

Home to blog writing and bed.



Wednesday, March 25, 2026

Day 6, Iguazu back to Buenos Aires

Tuesday, March 24th -- A travel day leaving Iguazu and returning to Buenos Aires.  But first, a correction regarding the Bunga tree (the tree with massive roots) seen on our first walk around Buenos Aires.  It is actually a Banyan tree since the signs all state it as ficus macrophylla.  It is commonly known as a Moreton Bay Fig or Australian Banyan.

Second, Betsy got a much better photograph of a Capuchin monkey this morning!  It was directly outside our balcony.


I also captured a couple of final shots at the hotel - the swimming pool, which has three levels -- a very nice design, in our opinion.  And some old hanging birds nests for the Red-rumped Cacique.


Birds nests.

Now back to today's report.  We got to sleep in, had a leisurely breakfast, and caught an early taxi ride to the airport.



The flight was delayed about an hour and half, fortunately we were notified yesterday so we delayed our arrival to the airport, even though it was still recommended that we arrive 2 hours before departure.  Both the passport control checkpoint and security was devoid of people and we sailed through.  Security required all pockets empty and no watches or belts.  But shoe removal was not necessary, nor laptop or water bottles removed from carry-on luggage.  We awaited our flight as the terminal area filled with people.  It was something of a mad rush to the plane with potentially more luggage than overhead bin space.  But we got our seats and stored our luggage successfully.  The seats were tight as before (28 inches of legroom according to Airbus), and a family in front of us had two frequent screaming/crying kids.  Ear plugs are an essential travel accessory.  The flight was otherwise uneventful and we arrived in nice weather at the smaller local airport in Buenos Aires.  We caught an Uber car immediately (no waiting) and got to our hotel by about 5 pm.  The desk staff remembered us, retrieved our stored luggage while we checked in, and even gave us the exact same rooms we had previously.  

Betsy and I went for a walk to stretch our legs and explored a new part of the city, walking 2.9 miles.  We saw a few sights:


An interesting building - the Centro Naval, corner of Florida and Cordoba.  It is a naval officers' social club and historic Beaux-Arts building.

Tango dancing "buskers"

The BA Yacht Club (for Jan since she remembered this area and suggested we try to find some sailboats).

A panoramic view of the boat basin.

A striking bridge that rotates --Puente de la Mujer or the Women's Bridge.

Torre Monumental (English Clock Tower).

Drinks and dinner in the hotel bar, with prep for the next day, some blog work, assembly laundry for service, and bed.




Tuesday, March 24, 2026

Day 5 Iguazu Falls, Argentina

Monday, March 23rd -- Our day at the Falls with lots of natural history.  After another early start (7:15 am) we drove to the Argentinian side of the Iguazu River and Park for a 10 km ramble around various trails (actually metal, elevated-walkways and paved paths) interspersed with slow train rides that took us to trailheads.  The park was busy and the day was going to be hot, so we appreciated the early start.

This side of the park has several trails set above the water just before it cascades over the edge of the rocks.  Consequently, there is a much different vibe to the waterfall system.  One of these trails goes out the very edge of the Devil's Throat, which is a drenching experience.  We also walked the Lower Circuit, which is on the lower shelf and provides views east to the upper tier of waterfalls, and the Upper Circuit which skims across the tops of the waterfalls.  There really is not much need for more text -- let's get to the photos.


A sign never before seen....


The narrow-gauge train that takes tourists to various stations near trailheads.

Ditto.

The trailhead out to Garganta del Diablo or the Devil's Throat.

The trail is a level,  3-meter high, steel walkway which replaced an earlier 5-meter high one that was destroyed by floods.  According to Dimitri, this current one  washed out in 2022 and was rebuilt using the same piers and many of the walkway grated sections (but with stronger tie-downs). 

Black Vultures sitting on a portion of the old walkway railing.

Water-carved basaltic rock -- ancient art?

A remanent of the old 5-meter high walkway

The Devil's Throat, the narrowest crevice in the waterfall system.

Looking downstream, the Brazilian side is on the right through the mist and yesterday's platform at the end of the trail is below the two waterfalls on the right (I am not sure it is visible).

The Diabolo gorge platform and tourists getting wet.  The white dots in the photo are water on the camera lens.





The map of the Argentinian side.

After the walk out to Devil's Throat, we rode the train partway back and then walked the Lower Circuit (yellow loop on the map).

Classic view of Devil's Throat.

The "curtain" of lesser falls that we walked along on the Upper Circuit.

According to Dimitri, this is the second "largest" in the Park, probably because of the water quantity.  The fall is creating a new gorge.  This is where tourist boats motor up to "drown" tourists.

Two Sisters Waterfall, named after two sisters who bathed here.

The Blue trail on the map.

Note the "curtain" of falls from the upper edge.

The viewpoint where we ended, with Argentine flag.

Record photo.

Ditto.

Walkway over the upper river.

Now for the flora and fauna -- not necessarily up close and personal.  This is the natural history part of the blog.

Belted Kingfisher

Redbreast Tilapia in the calm waters above the falls.

A pair of plush-crested jays on a small island crossed by the pathway.

Black vulture

Air plant

Smooth Johnnyberry 

Butterfly ginger Lily - very fragrant

Linda's Emperor butterfly


Channel Apple Snail about 3 inches wide - invasive

Suckermouth Catfish in a pool just above one of the big falls  (algae eaters)

   
White Blanket Lichen signifying clean air;    Christmas Lichen - note the red coloration.

Blue-frosted Banner Butterfly sitting on our guide, Dmitri (blue dots on the trailing edge of the wings)

Slug Moth sniffing my shoe

Justicia brasiliana

Endangered Iguazu Catfish (about 3 feet long) above the falls

Western collared spiny lizard (about 10 inches)


Small-eyed Sailor, very cute

Judaea tree, source of hearts of palm and Acai berries.


Narrow Stingless Bees and their honey trove, tiny & precious.

White layer of crystal rock between layers of basalt.

Dimitri and two satisfied customers.  He was a great guide who did not overwhelm us with narrative, pushed us along expeditiously, and was a strong proponent of drinking plenty of water to sustain us through the heat and exercise.

Back at the hotel...


A Capuchin Monkey seen from our hotel balcony at dusk.

An unidentified bird, part of a troop that was sounding the alarm about the monkeys' arrival in their neighborhood.  

We enjoyed the pool between thunderstorms, followed by dinner at the Tiki Bar.