Athens Day 1

September 18:  Today, Sunday, we had a full day of typical sightseeing visits of the most famous sites of Athens.  Varis and I started early with a quick trip to a coffee shop. 

We met up with Betsy, Jan, Karen, and Ron for a brisk walk to the Acropolis, via Arios Pagos, a hill top overlooking the city just below the Acropolis.  We walked south from our hotel passing a number of churches (with recorded cantors blaring out) , a vast amount of graffiti, and shuttered doors covering shop fronts.  We passed to one side of the ancient Agora (marketplace), which contained the Temple of Hephaestus and Attaulus Museum. We then ascended on paths through rocky ground and slick stones to the top of Arios Pagos with amazing views over the sprawling city, the Acropolis, and Lycabettus Hill.  Photography was in order.  We arrived at the Acropolis entrance with lots of others who were doing the same thing - so much for avoiding the crowds and the heat.  Although Athens is surrounded by low mountains and there are several substantial hills within the city limits, the Acropolis rock stands head and shoulders above everything else.   

We purchased 20 euro tickets and proceeded uphill on sometimes very polished (and slippery) marble paths and steps.  The first stop was a view down to the Herod Atticus Odeum (theatre) just on the southwest side.  We continued up and entered the Acropolis proper through a partially intact gate.  The ground leveled off with views of the Parthenon and the Temple of Athena, the two major buildings on the site.  The Parthenon is under constant restoration and has scaffolding on one end and a crane inside.  The basic external frame still stands and it is bigger and more impressive than expected.  We strolled past, talking lots of photos, to the opposite end of the 'plateau' to an overlook toward the northeast.  I waited for Betsy to catch up and we walked back to the temple which is to the right  (or north) of the Parthenon.  We met up with others and proceeded slowly back to the gate and down a separate route to the exit.  The day was already getting hot.

We then walked to Parliment Square via the freedom park to catch the parade/changing of the guards.  On Sundays only, at 11:00 am, the guard change involves a small band and 200 guards that march along the street.  The Greek style of marching involves a kick and high step with the right foot, ending with a sharp smack when that foot hits the ground.  Each guard is decked out in a colorful, traditional  uniform  - a short white pleated skirt, a white blouse with long loose sleeves, a red tunic, white leggings, and black tassels on the toe of each shoe.  They also wear a fez-like hat or red beret.  There were so many sightseers there, we didn't see much of the 'silly' ceremony but did enjoy the music and the marching in and out on the street.  

Since we were right at the National Garden, we walked through it on the way to the Plaka neighborhood to have lunch.  We also passed the Panathinaiko Stadium (an enormous u-shaped stadium used in the ancient Olympics and restored for use in the modern Olympics), the Olympic swimming venue and the Temple of Zeus (with its few tall standing columns and a single shattered one laying on the ground).

We had a fun lunch with friendly wait staff and great food at a charming restaurant that was over 100 years old and visited by celebrities in the past.  We sat outside under an umbrella at the intersection of two narrow streets that are now for pedestrians only (and an occasional motor scooter).

After lunch we walked over to the relatively new Acropolis Museum set below  the southeast corner of the mound.  We toured all three floors of statues, etc.  recovered for around or in the Acropolis.  The top floor of the museum is exactly the length and width of the Parthenon with small plain columns.  The friezes and pediments are reproduced in plaster along with a few of the original carved stones - those not taken by the English (Elgin Marbles in the British Museum), the French (statues in the Louvre) and the Turks.  It is only by looking at these parts and by using detailed sketches drawn by early admirers that they know what the some of the scenes actually were.  There are still some large sections that remain unknown.  The Parthenon has been blighted by earthquakes, fires, explosions, and savaging humans, so it's surprising how much remain.

We rode the tourist bus back to the hotel to rest and cool off (a shower for Phil) before going for a light dinner at the same bakery/cafe where some of us had eaten the night before.  In addition to a splendid array of baked goods, cookies, and pastries, they offer sandwiches, salads, and hot entrees - a one-stop shop.