Day 2 - Hike 1

July 3:  The first hike in the Lakes District was to be a low-level, easy one.  It turned out to be closer to 'moderate.'  We covered 10.2 miles and climbed 1,000 feet.  We walked out of Ambleside, passing the skinniest house , a tiny stone structure now used as an information center.  The house was built over the river in the 18th century to avoid land taxes.  Tax dodges have been around for a long time.

Skinniest House, over the River

We walked northwest along the main roadway toward Rydal for a while, but diverted off onto a bridle path, past sheep pastures and a 'hydro scheme,' a small hydroelectric plant with a "twin jet Pelton turbine"  and less than 1 MW of output.  We came into the hamlet of Rydal, first encountering Rydal Hall, the classical home of Le Fleming family, but now a church retreat/conference center whose grounds were open for exploring.  The formal garden in front was particularly nice.  We had elevenses at the tea shop next to Rydal Beck, a burbling and pretty creek.

Garden at Rydal Hall

'Elevenses'

Sitting in the Rydal Hall Garden

Our next stop was Rydal Mount, the last residence of William Wordsworth.  It is here that he composed his famous poem Daffodils.  He lived out his life here (moving in 1813; dying at age 80 in 1850) and planted/designed much of the garden in a glorious romantic style.  After his daughter Dora died, being sickly most of her life, he bought a neighboring field and planted it in daffodils.  It was downhill from the house next to the river or Rydal Water outlet.  We didn't go down to this field, now known as Dora's Field, but toured the house and gardens.  Although Wordsworth was a tenant when he lived there, the house was purchased by later generations and is still in the family.  It is owned by Susan Wordsworth Andrew, a great, great granddaughter.  Many of the rooms were open to the public, with lots of memorabilia - photos, original letters and furniture, even though the house is still used as a residence.  The house, of white stucco, was comfortable and appealing, with many windows looking out to the gardens and the surrounding fells, woods, and lakeland.

Rydal Mount

Wordsworth's Famous Poem

We next walked toward Grasmere, up from the edge of Rydal Water, following the 'Coffin' road.  This track was the route used to haul coffins from Ambleside to Grasmere for burial before Ambleside got a church.  It would have been hard toiling carrying a coffin over the rocks and tree roots.  The route is also just below Nab Scar, a rocky face on the northside fell.

We reached the outskirts of Grasmere, passing by stony Dove Cottage, Wordsworth's earlier residence.  We went on into center of town, stopping at ancient St. Oswald's Church, where Wordsworth and his family are buried.  The inside of the church is unique in that it was originally built as two churches that shared a common wall.  There were two roofs and separate entrances.  Later, arches were cut into the common wall and a single, oak, timber-framed roof replaced the two roofs.

St. Oswald's Church

We walked out of town and around the west and south side of Grasmere Water.  We reached a 'terrace' with a grand view back over the water, the town of Grasmere and the mountain formation of Helm Crag.  We walked past this crag 3 years ago when on the Coast to Coast Trail.  It is also known as the 'Lion and the Lamb.'  We continued back toward Ambleside walking by a cave, which is really a disused quarry.  It has a huge entrance with a lake covering the floor.

We descended to the lane that ran along the river flowing out of Rydal Water and into Lake Windermere (River Rothay).  We arrived at Ambleside at Rothay Park (the town park) and walked across town to our cottage.

Ambleside

Downtown Ambleside