Thursday, July 21, 2016

Day 19 - Drunken Duck

July 20: The day started with a crashing, raging thunderstorm that lasted most of the morning. Otherwise it was a low key day, highlighted by a stroll to lunch at The Drunken Duck Inn and Restaurant in Barnsgate.  This was proceeded by another morning session of yoga for Betsy (she did headstands).

We walked 3 miles to the restaurant on "permitted" paths along side a busy road (i.e., on the other side of the stone wall from traffic) and along a smaller paved track, leaning out of the way when the occasional vehicle came by.  And we climbed about 400 feet in elevation.  We could see back to the edge of Ambleside from the front porch.

Looking back to Red Screes, our climb of the previous day
The restaurant is the only thing at a quiet four-way crossroad - the main building is on one corner, a parking lot on another and outside picnic tables on the third next to a sheep pasture.  I don't recall what was in the fourth corner, probably a pasture or trees.   People come to the Drunken Duck because of its reputation for good food; it's off the beaten path.


Lunch was excellent and nicely spiced - we shared a mezze plate for two and barley salad, flavored with coriander, thyme and parsley.  We each had cider to drink.  We also shared a "Bakewell tart."

Our walk home took us to Skelwith Bridge on the River Brathay, which flows out the Langsdale valley and into Lake Windermere, and then we went east along a busy road with no separate paths, to Clappersgate.  This was less than enjoyable since there was lots of traffic and no shoulders to walk on.  We did a lot of hugging the stone walls.  At Skelwith Bridge, we stopped in at the 'sister' establishment of the Drunken Duck called Chester's on the River.  It had a large gift shop with unique items, a take away food counter, and a cafe.  It was busier than the Drunken Duck, probably given that it is on a main tourist road.

The day was warm and with '110%' humidity, we were sweating when we got home.  We crashed and read to cool off.  I finished The Shepherd's Life, by James Rebank, a book Betsy found at Christmas last year.  The author is a lakes district sheep farmer who describes the yearly cycle of working on a Lakeland farm, breeding and raising Herdwick sheep which are unique to this area.  The book is very romantic and autobiographical, recounting his early life, being "trained" by his grandfather and father, his adulthood with a family and the trials of working in the mud, rain, cold, snow and high up on the fells.  He loves the hard work and is something of a celebrity now in this area.

Sunrise and Moon over the Lake District, photo by Betsy

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