Rome for the last day

June 27:  Today was a relaxed day with some walking about.  We first had a "caffe and cornet brioche" at the recommended place, Tazza d'Oro,  just off the Piazzo Pantheon.  The custom is to pay first, then deliver the receipt to the barista, who makes the coffee and yells for the croissants.  The shop looked like it wanted to be an Italian Starbucks and frankly it might have been.  There were a variety of roasted beans, cups and gadgets, and expresso machines that cost more than 900 euros.

Our primary destination for the day was the Plaza Della Republica and the adjacent Santa Maria degli Angeli Cathedral.  The cathedral was the last architectural design completed by Michalangeo at age 83 and was built over the largest Roman bath ever found - Terme di Diocilezano.  The church now sits over one of the three large historic pools (all long since destroyed), I think it was the Tepiderium (the middle temperature one).  Michalangeo incorporated some of the bath's columns and foundations in the church.  

Inside the church, there is pendulum with historical context, all in Italian, a meridian laid on the floor that tracks the sun angle, decorated with the signs of the zodiac, and a 'museum' that has posters recounting the design of the church and providing context for the baths.  The meridian uses a small hole high in the church wall that allows a ray of sunshine to hit the line at a certain time each day.  Thus, the sun angle is precisely determined and the date in the solar year can be estimated.

We exited the church and circled it to a history museum set over more of the bath complex.  Unhappily for us, it was closed on Mondays.  Instead we walked up to the Spansh Steps, which are completely blocked off for renovation.  This didn't deter the tourists who were there in droves.  We walked back to the hotel to cool off and read.  I am reading the 11th book by Louise Penny, The Long Way Home, only one more after this one to finish the series. 

We went out for a second walk and dinner by heading first toward the Largo di Argeniina, a large Roman ruin set below street level.   We were in search of the resident stray cats, which we had missed on an earlier pass.  There are perhaps 50 cats of different sizes, colors and ages living among the ruins.  Local people bring them food and water, and the cats have alll been sterilized and vaccinated and seem happy with their lot.   

We then wandered on toward the river.  We spied a variety of riverside tents on the Trastevere side, which drew us in.  The tents housed  a variety of market stalls and several restaurants and bars.  We walked up and then down before deciding on a place for drinks and dinner.  Most of the restaurants were full of Italian fans routing for their soccer team which was playing Spain in the Euro 2016 championships.  We heard two loud screams and later lots of car horns - Italy won 2 goals to none.  Rome had dropped a few degrees this day and there was a nice breeze along the river, so it was very pleasant.

Our dinner was at a natural food restaurant - seafood salad and tuna Tandori, in small portions but well prepared.  We started with a piadina, which is an Italian quesadilla with filling, eggplant in this case.  We wandered to our hotel and enjoyed gelatos before retiring for packing and bed.

We are off to Geneva tomorrow via a 9:00 am train to Milan and a second train into Switzerland, arriving at 4:21.  Read below to see if this worked out.  I am writing this on the first train which is going 246 km per hour.

June 28:  Up early today, taxi to Rome Termini and caught the train to Milan, traveling through a number of tunnels.  Note, after the previous entry, we reached a speed of 300 km/hr, or 186 mph.  Arrived in Milan on time, and walked easily over to train bound for Geneva.  We knew the platform number before those in the station, since they flashed it in the Milan train car just before we got off.  So, we were the first people on.  The ride to Geneva was slower paced, with several stops but the scenery was impressive.  We weaved by Lake Maggiore, through the Alps, went by Visp, the junction that leads into Zermatt, and followed the Rhone River all the way to Geneva.  We passed the Chillon Castle and Lausanne, both on Lake Geneva.

We checked into our hotel (Admiral - 3 stars), got free public transport passes, and immediately went out exploring.  We walked down to the lake front and saw the 140 meter high fountain jet, and the Park Anglais with its 'flower clock '  celebrating Swiss watchmaking.  Then we climbed up to the old town to see the cathedral, a couple of parks, and various narrow quaint streets.  We passed a restaurant specializing in crepes that we returned to for dinner.  We each had a salad and then a special crepe, which looked more like a pizza than a crepe.  The bases were buckwheat pancakes.

We then wandered through a different part of old town and discovered an outdoor concert that was underway.  We stood and listened to several pieces.  The orchestra appeared to be largely young musicians.  There were soloists on the trumpet, marimba, and a small type of accordion, Argentinian-style.  We walked back to the hotel, crossing the Rhone River at the outlet of the lake.  There were swans, ducks, and coots on the amazingly clear and fast moving water.