June 8: Today, our next to the last day on the WHW, the hike extended about 10 miles (it was suppose to be 8 1/2 miles) up the Devil's Staircase and down into the River Leven Valley to the 'industrial town' of Kinlochleven (think a 'factory town with the factory shutdown'). We ascended over 2,200 vertical feet, reaching the highest point on all of the WHW (about 1,900 feet). The first 2 miles of the hike was along the A82 road at the head of the Glencoe Valley, then we turned away from the road climbing up the Devil's Staircase to the high point. The staircase was not as bad as its name - there were even a few switchbacks that made the uphill parts easier, and is thought to have been named by English soldiers who had to drag cannon and other military armaments up the hillside. The views back into the valley were grand, with the clouds burning off during the morning.
We next had some downhill and then a grand traverse along the south side of the Leven Valley, with a view of the Blackwater Reservoir, which feeds a powerplant in Kinlochleven that was originally used for aluminum smelting. The plant is still operating (it has 5 of the original 11 double Pelton turbines and DC generators remaining; its original capacity was 23 megawatts), though the aluminum smelter is gone. In one of the old buildings on the aluminum smelter grounds, there is the Ice Climbing Center of Scotland, with an actual 14-meter high, indoor ice wall. We visited it after climbing down to just about 100 feet elevation along a steep jeep track and occasionally beside 8 penstocks. I estimated that the penstocks, which feed the powerhouse, were over 1,000 of head.
We checked in to a very nice B&B with good Wifi, showered and gathered at the best pub in town - The Highland Getaway. We sat outside on an upper deck with a full view of the river. As the temperature dropped, we moved indoors and enjoyed a pub dinner. We strolled back to the B&B to get prepared for our longest walking day on the Way - 14 to 16 miles, our final day into Ft. William.
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