July 21: Today was mostly quiet, getting prepared for my sister's arrival. We stocked up the refrigerator with food for three and organized the flat. And we had drinks at the Queen's Pub, a pub that we have not tried up until now. We sat outside and people-watched so I can't really rate the pub itself. Later we read and nodded off in the quiet afternoon.
We finally had to move and decided to stroll around our immediate neighborhood and on to Waterhead, which is the name for the area of Ambleside bordering the lake. The pier for the lake cruisers and several boat rental companies are located here. We found a forest garden that was created by a National Trust employee in 1959 and is now open to visitors. I noticed that it was one of the few places highlighted on the Ambleside "Heritage Trail," a local walking route around the town.
July 22: My sister Elaine arrived from Virginia, by way of New York today. Betsy and I caught a bus to the Windermere Train Station, then a train to the Manchester Airport Station, and walked into Terminal 1 to wait for Elaine to emerge from Passport Control, Baggage Claim and Customs. She flew in from New York on Icelandair and was on time.
We next caught a bus to the car rental 'village.' After something of a wait, we got into a Mercedes, automatic transmission diesel car for the drive back to Ambleside. Traffic was heavy; there was an earlier accident on the M6 that produced a "queue" - the local name for a traffic backup or congestion. We had several more slow downs and one more queue before turning off the M6 for the local road to Windermere. We made a brief stop at Booth's, a full-size grocery store, for a few things that our local Tesco Express store does not have. We made it home safely with only one wrong turn.
I walked Elaine around the town showing her some of the sights. We just happened to go by the Golden Rule Pub, so I had to stop to show her a real English pub. We enjoyed a drink and arrived home in time to help Betsy finish up dinner prep. We enjoyed a roast chicken, wedge potatoes and salad. Elaine is now dozing on the sofa, which is to be expected after an overnight flight.
Friday, July 22, 2016
Thursday, July 21, 2016
Day 19 - Drunken Duck
July 20: The day started with a crashing, raging thunderstorm that lasted most of the morning. Otherwise it was a low key day, highlighted by a stroll to lunch at The Drunken Duck Inn and Restaurant in Barnsgate. This was proceeded by another morning session of yoga for Betsy (she did headstands).
We walked 3 miles to the restaurant on "permitted" paths along side a busy road (i.e., on the other side of the stone wall from traffic) and along a smaller paved track, leaning out of the way when the occasional vehicle came by. And we climbed about 400 feet in elevation. We could see back to the edge of Ambleside from the front porch.
The restaurant is the only thing at a quiet four-way crossroad - the main building is on one corner, a parking lot on another and outside picnic tables on the third next to a sheep pasture. I don't recall what was in the fourth corner, probably a pasture or trees. People come to the Drunken Duck because of its reputation for good food; it's off the beaten path.
Lunch was excellent and nicely spiced - we shared a mezze plate for two and barley salad, flavored with coriander, thyme and parsley. We each had cider to drink. We also shared a "Bakewell tart."
Our walk home took us to Skelwith Bridge on the River Brathay, which flows out the Langsdale valley and into Lake Windermere, and then we went east along a busy road with no separate paths, to Clappersgate. This was less than enjoyable since there was lots of traffic and no shoulders to walk on. We did a lot of hugging the stone walls. At Skelwith Bridge, we stopped in at the 'sister' establishment of the Drunken Duck called Chester's on the River. It had a large gift shop with unique items, a take away food counter, and a cafe. It was busier than the Drunken Duck, probably given that it is on a main tourist road.
The day was warm and with '110%' humidity, we were sweating when we got home. We crashed and read to cool off. I finished The Shepherd's Life, by James Rebank, a book Betsy found at Christmas last year. The author is a lakes district sheep farmer who describes the yearly cycle of working on a Lakeland farm, breeding and raising Herdwick sheep which are unique to this area. The book is very romantic and autobiographical, recounting his early life, being "trained" by his grandfather and father, his adulthood with a family and the trials of working in the mud, rain, cold, snow and high up on the fells. He loves the hard work and is something of a celebrity now in this area.
We walked 3 miles to the restaurant on "permitted" paths along side a busy road (i.e., on the other side of the stone wall from traffic) and along a smaller paved track, leaning out of the way when the occasional vehicle came by. And we climbed about 400 feet in elevation. We could see back to the edge of Ambleside from the front porch.
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| Looking back to Red Screes, our climb of the previous day |
Lunch was excellent and nicely spiced - we shared a mezze plate for two and barley salad, flavored with coriander, thyme and parsley. We each had cider to drink. We also shared a "Bakewell tart."
Our walk home took us to Skelwith Bridge on the River Brathay, which flows out the Langsdale valley and into Lake Windermere, and then we went east along a busy road with no separate paths, to Clappersgate. This was less than enjoyable since there was lots of traffic and no shoulders to walk on. We did a lot of hugging the stone walls. At Skelwith Bridge, we stopped in at the 'sister' establishment of the Drunken Duck called Chester's on the River. It had a large gift shop with unique items, a take away food counter, and a cafe. It was busier than the Drunken Duck, probably given that it is on a main tourist road.
The day was warm and with '110%' humidity, we were sweating when we got home. We crashed and read to cool off. I finished The Shepherd's Life, by James Rebank, a book Betsy found at Christmas last year. The author is a lakes district sheep farmer who describes the yearly cycle of working on a Lakeland farm, breeding and raising Herdwick sheep which are unique to this area. The book is very romantic and autobiographical, recounting his early life, being "trained" by his grandfather and father, his adulthood with a family and the trials of working in the mud, rain, cold, snow and high up on the fells. He loves the hard work and is something of a celebrity now in this area.
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| Sunrise and Moon over the Lake District, photo by Betsy |
Tuesday, July 19, 2016
Day 18 - Red Screes
July 19: Today was predicted to be hot and sunny, and it was. The clouds were high, so we embarked on our high elevation hike to the top of Red Screes, a rounded top mountain at the end of a gently-rising ridge line north of Ambleside. We walked up to High Sweden Bridge, which crosses over the Scandale Beck. We did not cross the bridge but followed the Scandale Beck up the valley to Scandale Pass at about 1,600 feet.
The rounded, perfectly symmetrical valley had numerous rectangular pastures defined by dry-stone walls or, as they are called here, 'dykes.'
Once reaching the pass we made a hard right turn and went straight up to 2,500 feet to the summit of Red Screes.
The views were impressive. We could see every major fell in the Lake District, including Hevellyn, Old Man, Scafell, Langdale Pikes, and a multitude of others. We had a particularly good view to the east and northeast along the track of the Coast to Coast Trail as it leaves Patterdale and travels across The Knott and Kidsty Pike, before dropping to Haweswater Reservoir. We might not have appreciated the views had we done this hike earlier in our holiday, but since we have explored just about every valley, we had a vivid sense of each fell and lake on the horizon.
We had lunch on top looking east with the sun behind us. We next walked the ridge line south with views of Kirkstone Pass, the Kirkstone Quarry, the entire length of Lake Windermere, Rydal Water, and the Langdale Pikes and Lingmoor Fell in the background, and later Ambleside. It was a somewhat tedious walk down into the blazing sun that seemed to never end . We walked between stone dykes most of the way to the edge of town. I spotted a small brown lizard and later a rabbit.
We stopped for a cool brew and cider at The Golden Rule Pub, since it was on the way to the flat and we needed rehydration. While we were there, an older woman suffering from heat exhaustion was rescued from the lane just outside the pub. She apparently recovered quickly.
We trudged home for showers and more recovery of our own.
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| Pied Wagtail |
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| High Sweden Bridge, with others (specifically 'Highland Cattle') |
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| "It is cool standing in the beck" |
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| A good trail, though the views are limited sideways |
Once reaching the pass we made a hard right turn and went straight up to 2,500 feet to the summit of Red Screes.
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| Slabs, some of the easiest uphill trails ever |
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| Hevellyn, with Striding Edge to the right out of the photo |
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| 180 Degree panorama from the top (Hevellyn is dead center) |
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| On top |
We had lunch on top looking east with the sun behind us. We next walked the ridge line south with views of Kirkstone Pass, the Kirkstone Quarry, the entire length of Lake Windermere, Rydal Water, and the Langdale Pikes and Lingmoor Fell in the background, and later Ambleside. It was a somewhat tedious walk down into the blazing sun that seemed to never end . We walked between stone dykes most of the way to the edge of town. I spotted a small brown lizard and later a rabbit.
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| Lake Windermere |
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| Looking west to Scafell, etc. |
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| Looking back uphill to Red Screes |
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| Rydal Water with Lingmoor Fell behind |
We trudged home for showers and more recovery of our own.
Monday, July 18, 2016
Day 16 - A Rest Day with Richard II and Day 17 - Jenkins Loop
July 17: After a week of intense hikes, we chose to take it easy today. Instead we went to a videocast showing of Richard II originally produced at the Shakespeare Globe Theatre in 2015. Richard II was played by Charles Edwards, an actor who many people saw on Downton Abbey in the role of Michael Gregson, editor and suitor to Lady Edith Crawley, and father of her child. There were a few other actors that we had seen on TV also. Richard II is a history play with beautiful speeches and not much action. It focusses on the philosophical question of whether kings really have a divine right to rule.
After the movie, we walked around the town a bit, enjoying the nice evening, and eventually opted for a restaurant meal of salads and pizza for dinner. We shared tiramisu for dessert.
July 18: Today, the clouds persisted in covering the fell tops, so we adjusted our planned hike from a high altitude one (which we may do tomorrow) to a low altitude one. We hiked 7.5 miles with over 1,000 of ascent to Jenkins Crag, through pasture lands, down to the Lake Windermere shore at Brockhole, (the National Park Visitor and Recreation Center), back up to Briery Close, down to Low Wood Hotel (built in 1850 to replace an older one), and finally back along the lake shore to Ambleside. It was a stereotypical Lake District hike, with rocky paths, stunning views of fells and lakes, sheep in the meadows, pretty stone cottages, and a scenic lake shore. Brockhole was full of vacationing families trying out the canoes, gardens, pony rides, miniature golf and "tree top trek" and zipline - something for everyone.
After the movie, we walked around the town a bit, enjoying the nice evening, and eventually opted for a restaurant meal of salads and pizza for dinner. We shared tiramisu for dessert.
July 18: Today, the clouds persisted in covering the fell tops, so we adjusted our planned hike from a high altitude one (which we may do tomorrow) to a low altitude one. We hiked 7.5 miles with over 1,000 of ascent to Jenkins Crag, through pasture lands, down to the Lake Windermere shore at Brockhole, (the National Park Visitor and Recreation Center), back up to Briery Close, down to Low Wood Hotel (built in 1850 to replace an older one), and finally back along the lake shore to Ambleside. It was a stereotypical Lake District hike, with rocky paths, stunning views of fells and lakes, sheep in the meadows, pretty stone cottages, and a scenic lake shore. Brockhole was full of vacationing families trying out the canoes, gardens, pony rides, miniature golf and "tree top trek" and zipline - something for everyone.
Saturday, July 16, 2016
Day 14 - Coniston & Brantwood and Day 15 - Langdale Pikes
July 15: Rain and low clouds today so we opted for a bus ride to Coniston and a look around. We first stopped at the parish church to John Ruskin's grave before heading to the lakeside of Coniston Water. We walked under our umbrellas the whole time. Yesterday's sunshine disappeared so quickly, we might have imagined it.
After the lake front, where we saw the gas powered "gondola" that gives tourist rides on the lake (not much activity today), some restaurants/ice cream shops and a flock of ducks begging for food, we decided to walk to Brantwood, the last home of John Ruskin. It is was located across the lake and about 2.5 miles away. We walked with umbrellas, partially on public footpaths and partly on a narrow, little used road.
Arriving at Brantwood, we went in, learned about John Ruskin by watching a 15-minute video, and then toured his home from the 1870's until his death in 1900. He was a man ahead of his time, and because of this, was probably not accepted by the establishment. He first made a name for himself as an ardent supporter of the paintings of J.M. Turner and thus became a leading art critic of his time. He could draw and paint also but rarely for sale. He was an avid collector of seashells and rocks/minerals, and as an only son in a higher class family from London, traveled in Europe often. He became a social critic and railed against the ravages caused by capitalism - poverty, child labor, environmental degradation, etc. He supported the creation of a minimum wage, reasonable working hours, and the like, none of which were adopted before his death. He was also influential in establishing the National Trust (England's public organization which preserves natural and cultural heritages), protecting scenic areas like the Lake District, and supporting the idea of a common economic union in Europe. This last one got a chuckle from others in the audience.
The house was interesting and beautiful, although the areas open to the public are limited. We toured a great study - very inviting and comfortable with wallpaper of Ruskin's own design - and three other larger and more formal rooms (drawing room, dining room and sitting room).
Upstairs we saw his bedroom, recreated with his favorite paintings by Turner and others which covered most of the wall space. A small turret constructed in one corner afforded the views across Coniston Water to Old Man of Coniston and other fells shared by the other west-facing rooms. With a cozy chair and a tea table, one could sit there for hours enjoying the scenery. There was also a small studio upstairs, which was more like a store room of his collectibles.
We could have toured the vast gardens, English-style I think, but we were already wet enough and it was still raining.
We stopped for tea and ginger bread at the connected cafe, before walking back to the catch a bus home. We walked back along the road, periodically hopping to the edge to avoid the cars that come racing at you on what is a one lane wide road. Driving here is not for the faint of heart.
July 16: Today, the weather cleared, as you will see from the photos, and we took the bus to Dungeon Ghyll for an 8-mile walk around Lingmoor Fell. We walked first up, over and down on the higher, western side of the fell in a valley between Lingmoor and Wrynose Fell past Side Pike, Blea Tarn and Blea Moss. A pike is a peak, a tarn is a small lake, and a moss is a fen or wetland or bog. We joined an historic route that goes west over Wrynose Pass and goes east to Ambleside. It has been in use for over 2,000 years, linking Roman forts at Ravenglass, Hardknott and Ambleside and later used by packhorse trains. While in the higher countryside, we had great views back to Langdale Pikes, Bow Fell, our route up to Stake Pass (which we walked a week ago), and Crinkle Crags.
We had damp feet after crossing the Blea Moss but went quickly down to the Little Langdale Valley, with its tarn of the same name. We passed Ting Mound, which was a historic meeting spot established in the 7th century. People would come together at this outdoor space to conduct local administration and to hold courts. It was a convenient spot along the historic 'trade' route.
We crossed over a small, interesting, handcrafted bridge, known as Slaters Bridge, thought to have been built by nearby quarry workers, presumably known as 'slaters.' The quarries produced slate and are now 'disused.' It's a very scenic spot and families were enjoying picnics and playing in the water.
We crossed out the Little Langdale Valley and descended into the Great Langdale Valley and sped quickly through the flat lowlands back to Dungeon Ghyll. We crossed the Great Langdale Beck, which is a good sized river at this point. We caught the bus back to Ambleside, using the last day of our 7-day pass we bought last Sunday.
We had dinner in. Betsy made chicken with tomato sauce, which we had over pasta, and a salad.
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| Coniston Parish Church with unique roof trusses |
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| John Ruskin's gravestone |
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| A powered 'Gondola' |
The house was interesting and beautiful, although the areas open to the public are limited. We toured a great study - very inviting and comfortable with wallpaper of Ruskin's own design - and three other larger and more formal rooms (drawing room, dining room and sitting room).
Upstairs we saw his bedroom, recreated with his favorite paintings by Turner and others which covered most of the wall space. A small turret constructed in one corner afforded the views across Coniston Water to Old Man of Coniston and other fells shared by the other west-facing rooms. With a cozy chair and a tea table, one could sit there for hours enjoying the scenery. There was also a small studio upstairs, which was more like a store room of his collectibles.
We could have toured the vast gardens, English-style I think, but we were already wet enough and it was still raining.
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| Brantwood, the turret is to the left, second floor |
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| The view from Brantwood to Coniston, on a not particularly good weather day |
July 16: Today, the weather cleared, as you will see from the photos, and we took the bus to Dungeon Ghyll for an 8-mile walk around Lingmoor Fell. We walked first up, over and down on the higher, western side of the fell in a valley between Lingmoor and Wrynose Fell past Side Pike, Blea Tarn and Blea Moss. A pike is a peak, a tarn is a small lake, and a moss is a fen or wetland or bog. We joined an historic route that goes west over Wrynose Pass and goes east to Ambleside. It has been in use for over 2,000 years, linking Roman forts at Ravenglass, Hardknott and Ambleside and later used by packhorse trains. While in the higher countryside, we had great views back to Langdale Pikes, Bow Fell, our route up to Stake Pass (which we walked a week ago), and Crinkle Crags.
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| Bow Fell and to the right the route up to Stake Pass |
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| Langdale Pikes (Pike of Stickle, Loft Crag, Harrison Stickle and Pavey Ark) |
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| Some type of orchid (?) |
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| Blea Tarn |
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| Slaters Bridge |
We had dinner in. Betsy made chicken with tomato sauce, which we had over pasta, and a salad.
Thursday, July 14, 2016
Day 12 - Hawkshead and Day 13 - A bit of the Coast to Coast
July 13: Today's hike started in the small village of Hawkshead, where Wordsworth went to elementary school. Hawkshead is a popular tourist destination, partly because it is very pretty but also because it lies within Beatrix Potter territory and has a museum or gallery showing her drawings. We completed a 6 mile loop that went northwest out of town, first passing a neat looking 15th century parish church, and then climbing up to Hawkshead Hill through sheep pastures. The path went through a small forest and we soon arrived at a viewpoint overlooking Tarn Hows. This is a small, very picturesque, tarn that "adorns so many thousands of calendars and birthday cards." The tarn has a few islands, is bordered on one side with trees, and in the background, one sees the Langdale Fells. The resident ducks and geese expect handouts from the sightseers and walk right up to people to beg.
We walked around one side of the tarn, then climbed up a rocky track that afforded views of Ambleside, Lake Windermere, and many of the central and western fells. We arrived back in Hawkshead village in time for a beer and cider. We caught the bus back to Ambleside, rested some, and went out for a pub dinner at the very busy White Lion Hotel and Pub.
July 14: The weather forecast was improving today, so we decided for a hike into higher elevations. We completed a loop from Grasmere, up to Helms Crag, followed the ridge to the west passing Bracken Hause, Gibson Knott, Pike of Carrs and Calf Crag, to the junction of the Coast to Coast Trail and then down the valley back to Grasmere. The hike was 8 miles in length and about 2,000 feet in ascent. It sounds easy, but the trails are not what one thinks of as a typical path through the woods. There is steep steps, uneven and rocky terrain, water flowing on the trail necessitating hopping from stone to stone to reduce getting one's feet wet, and lots of bogs. Sheep droppings are really the least thing to worry about.
The weather was spectacular with scattered clouds, plenty of sunshine (we used sunblock for the first time here) and warm temperatures. The views were stellar.
The first half of the hike today reprised a part of the Coast to Coast hike we did 3 years ago, in reverse direction. Back then, we had walked up to a pass, known as Greenup Edge from Stonethwaite and then walked along the Helms Crag ridge, hitting the various crags mentioned above and down into Grasmere for our overnight stay. Today, we saw our accommodations from 3 years ago - all of them are still in business.
After finishing the hike, we stopped in Grasmere for drinks and a snack before catching the bus back to Ambleside.
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| Hawkshead Grammar School |
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| Founded in 1585; Attended by Wordsworth for 7 years |
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| Hawkshead is known for its begonias, which graced every shop, hotel and most homes |
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| 15th Century Parish Church |
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| A selfie at Tarn Hows |
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| Tarn Hows |
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| Hawkshead Village with Esthwaite Water in background |
July 14: The weather forecast was improving today, so we decided for a hike into higher elevations. We completed a loop from Grasmere, up to Helms Crag, followed the ridge to the west passing Bracken Hause, Gibson Knott, Pike of Carrs and Calf Crag, to the junction of the Coast to Coast Trail and then down the valley back to Grasmere. The hike was 8 miles in length and about 2,000 feet in ascent. It sounds easy, but the trails are not what one thinks of as a typical path through the woods. There is steep steps, uneven and rocky terrain, water flowing on the trail necessitating hopping from stone to stone to reduce getting one's feet wet, and lots of bogs. Sheep droppings are really the least thing to worry about.
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| A typical trail |
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| More trail conditions - note the water, mud and boulders |
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| Helm's Crag or also know as the "Howitzer" or the "Lion and the Lamb" from another direction |
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| Who's the lion and who's the lamb? |
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| The Helms Crag Ridgeline with Grasmere in the low background almost at Calf Crag |
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| On Calf Crag, the highest point of the hike |
The first half of the hike today reprised a part of the Coast to Coast hike we did 3 years ago, in reverse direction. Back then, we had walked up to a pass, known as Greenup Edge from Stonethwaite and then walked along the Helms Crag ridge, hitting the various crags mentioned above and down into Grasmere for our overnight stay. Today, we saw our accommodations from 3 years ago - all of them are still in business.
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| View of Helms Crag from the valley |
Tuesday, July 12, 2016
Day 9, 10 and 11 - Three Day Outing
July 10: We have now put all our rain gear to the test, with the exception of our rain paints. Phil arranged a 3-day/2-night lake-to-lake trek when the weather was supposed to be OK. Well, that didn't work out quite as planned.
Sunday morning we bought 7-day bus passes and caught the 9:30 am bus from Ambleside going west past Elterwater to the end of the line just below Dungeon Ghyll Force, a long waterfall coming off the Langsdale Fells. We had thought we would trek up over the fells, but with low black clouds hanging over the valley, we opted for the "low" route along the Cumbrian Way. The climb up the fells looked very rugged and the views would have been minimal. Instead we walked along a good trail just above Mickleden Beck, passing meadows full of the usual sheep, and gaining about 1,100 feet. The trail rounded a curve and then began climbing up a well-graded stone stairway along a waterfall. At the top (Stake Pass), we found ourselves in a soggy basin or 'combe' surrounded by bleak fells with bracken on the upper slopes and sheep on the lower ground. The trail makers provided a great set of well-graded switchbacks that we followed downhill into Langstrath valley.
The trail in this area was not well built. Saturday's downpour had filled every streamlet, beck, gill, and watercourse to the brim, and the water overran the pathway so that we were essentially walking in water or focussing very hard on not walking in water. Drainage channels and more abundant placement of stepping stones would have been much appreciated, and we were worn out by the time we reached the bottom. At this point, our trail nearly connected with the Coast to Coast route but we stayed on the south side of the valley out of Stonethwaite. We could where the CtoC trail went as it climbed up to Greenup Edge (and overlooking Grasmere).
We walked on past Stonethwaite to Rosthwaite and the Royal Oak Hotel, which had a traditional looking main building and newer guest accommodations in a back annex. The inn caters to CtoC trekkers and could easily have been our stopping point 3 years ago, since they work with Packhorse (the prime luggage transfer and accommodation arranger for the CtoC). We had a generous room on the ground floor of the annex overlooking the roaring Derwent River. We wandered a bit about the village of Rosthwaite, which has several other tourist facilities and not much else. At 7:30 we enjoyed an excellent dinner in the inn featuring delicious chicken and leek pie, poached pears, and a sampling of local cheeses.
July 11: Just about all the guests at the Royal Oak were trekkers, many doing the Coast to Coast. As we listened to a breakfast conversation about hikers loosing their way on the hillside above Honister Pass (one couple didn't reach the inn until 7:30, after wandering miles out of their way), we butted in to share our experience and to recommend that they find copies of the Steadman guidebook as soon as possible and "to follow the most used path" advice.
After breakfast we headed out to do another one of the walks from the local guidebook provided by our cottage. It was actively raining, so we marched uphill carrying our umbrellas and hop-scotching along the "streaming" footpath. Even the sheep looked unhappy today. The path went over a pass to the small, pretty Watendlath Tarn, set like a belly button among fells and practically unvisited. The downhill track along Watendlath (the name probably has Viking origins) beck was sopping wet, so we had another morning of watching carefully where we put our feet.
At the bottom of the valley, the trail turned uphill again through woods and soon led to a couple of stunning views over Derwent Water and its surrounding hills, or at least the lower portions of them. We walked for a way along the southeast bank of the lake and then across a wetland at the beginning of the Borrowdale Valley, crossing paths with several groups of students who seemed to be on an orienteering course. They were carrying huge backpacks wrapped in brightly colored pack covers and could be seen from far off.
We had lunch at a tea shop in the hamlet of Grange and then ambled back to Rosthwaite by way of the Bowder Stone, a local geological curiosity. We waited an hour for a bus to take us over steep Honister Pass to Buttermere, where Phil had arranged the next hotel.
We reached the Bridge Hotel about 4:30 and were given a nice spacious room on the second floor, with a stream and a beer garden immediately below our window, and views of High Stile and other grim-looking fells across the valley. Buttermere is supposed to be scenic, but the lake and the valley felt stark and barren, at least under leaden skies and heavy clouds. Towards evening, there were some some sun breaks and the half moon was visible, but the area is still less appealing than other parts of Lakeland.
We were more enchanted by the local animals. A flock of free range sheep patrolled the village (they must have won the mowing contract) and free range chickens pecked just up the road, apparently unconcerned about the limited but sometimes fast traffic. Mid-evening, a farmer in an off-road vehicle escorted 6 large red and white cows through the village to be milked. He had assistance from one border collie riding in the ATV, a second border collie chasing the cows, and a little brown terrier just running around to be part of the action. We heard later that this dog is named 'brown dog.'
We had a good simple dinner in the hotel's pub, full of other tourists and hikers.
July 12: Today, we arose after a nice sleep in a comfortable bed. The day started with sunshine but it didn't last. It was mostly cloudy and surprisingly somewhat chilly. There wasn't any rain so the umbrellas stayed packed. We had a sit-down breakfast in the hotel dining room and then caught the bus for Keswick. We went around the rest of the circle past Crummock Water (the twin to Buttermere), Lorton Vale (northwest edge of the district with huge farms), Whinlater Pass (with a big outdoor recreation center), and the town of Braithwaite.
From the guide book, we had picked out a loop hike east of Keswick, which first went along the lake front to Friar's Crag, a headland with a view across the lake, then climbed up below Walla Crag to a high point, and then northeastward to the Castlerigg Stone Circle. The uphill climb was in forest (Great Wood) and the several miles to the stone circle were through pastures and gates.
The Castlerigg Stone Circle is comprised of 38 stones grouped in an oval about 110 ft in diameter, with an additional 10 stones inside the circle outlining an altar or something. Situated on a plateau and surrounded by a series of large fells, it feels like a dramatic amphitheater. As with all prehistoric stone circles, no one knows what Castlerigg was used for. It has been dated to the Bronze Age, probably erected around 1,500 BC. There were hikers atop just about every fell on the horizon, and we could see trains of people going up Cat Bells and Skiddaw.
We walked a short cut back down to Keswick to avoid a damaged bridge over a beck (a serious storm in December 2015 damaged a number of facilities in the district). We stopped at the Pack Horse pub off the main market square for a baguette and ciders and then caught the 3:30 pm bus back to Ambleside.
Sunday morning we bought 7-day bus passes and caught the 9:30 am bus from Ambleside going west past Elterwater to the end of the line just below Dungeon Ghyll Force, a long waterfall coming off the Langsdale Fells. We had thought we would trek up over the fells, but with low black clouds hanging over the valley, we opted for the "low" route along the Cumbrian Way. The climb up the fells looked very rugged and the views would have been minimal. Instead we walked along a good trail just above Mickleden Beck, passing meadows full of the usual sheep, and gaining about 1,100 feet. The trail rounded a curve and then began climbing up a well-graded stone stairway along a waterfall. At the top (Stake Pass), we found ourselves in a soggy basin or 'combe' surrounded by bleak fells with bracken on the upper slopes and sheep on the lower ground. The trail makers provided a great set of well-graded switchbacks that we followed downhill into Langstrath valley.
The trail in this area was not well built. Saturday's downpour had filled every streamlet, beck, gill, and watercourse to the brim, and the water overran the pathway so that we were essentially walking in water or focussing very hard on not walking in water. Drainage channels and more abundant placement of stepping stones would have been much appreciated, and we were worn out by the time we reached the bottom. At this point, our trail nearly connected with the Coast to Coast route but we stayed on the south side of the valley out of Stonethwaite. We could where the CtoC trail went as it climbed up to Greenup Edge (and overlooking Grasmere).
We walked on past Stonethwaite to Rosthwaite and the Royal Oak Hotel, which had a traditional looking main building and newer guest accommodations in a back annex. The inn caters to CtoC trekkers and could easily have been our stopping point 3 years ago, since they work with Packhorse (the prime luggage transfer and accommodation arranger for the CtoC). We had a generous room on the ground floor of the annex overlooking the roaring Derwent River. We wandered a bit about the village of Rosthwaite, which has several other tourist facilities and not much else. At 7:30 we enjoyed an excellent dinner in the inn featuring delicious chicken and leek pie, poached pears, and a sampling of local cheeses.
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| The Mickleden Valley leading to Stake Pass |
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| Below Stake Pass, looking back from where we have come |
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| Sort of level ground and "in a creek" on the Langdale Combe |
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| Coming down into LangstrathValley, by the beck |
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| Langstrath Valley, note the trail engineering here |
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| The Royal Oak in Rosthwaite, our first night's hotel |
After breakfast we headed out to do another one of the walks from the local guidebook provided by our cottage. It was actively raining, so we marched uphill carrying our umbrellas and hop-scotching along the "streaming" footpath. Even the sheep looked unhappy today. The path went over a pass to the small, pretty Watendlath Tarn, set like a belly button among fells and practically unvisited. The downhill track along Watendlath (the name probably has Viking origins) beck was sopping wet, so we had another morning of watching carefully where we put our feet.
At the bottom of the valley, the trail turned uphill again through woods and soon led to a couple of stunning views over Derwent Water and its surrounding hills, or at least the lower portions of them. We walked for a way along the southeast bank of the lake and then across a wetland at the beginning of the Borrowdale Valley, crossing paths with several groups of students who seemed to be on an orienteering course. They were carrying huge backpacks wrapped in brightly colored pack covers and could be seen from far off.
We had lunch at a tea shop in the hamlet of Grange and then ambled back to Rosthwaite by way of the Bowder Stone, a local geological curiosity. We waited an hour for a bus to take us over steep Honister Pass to Buttermere, where Phil had arranged the next hotel.
We reached the Bridge Hotel about 4:30 and were given a nice spacious room on the second floor, with a stream and a beer garden immediately below our window, and views of High Stile and other grim-looking fells across the valley. Buttermere is supposed to be scenic, but the lake and the valley felt stark and barren, at least under leaden skies and heavy clouds. Towards evening, there were some some sun breaks and the half moon was visible, but the area is still less appealing than other parts of Lakeland.
We were more enchanted by the local animals. A flock of free range sheep patrolled the village (they must have won the mowing contract) and free range chickens pecked just up the road, apparently unconcerned about the limited but sometimes fast traffic. Mid-evening, a farmer in an off-road vehicle escorted 6 large red and white cows through the village to be milked. He had assistance from one border collie riding in the ATV, a second border collie chasing the cows, and a little brown terrier just running around to be part of the action. We heard later that this dog is named 'brown dog.'
We had a good simple dinner in the hotel's pub, full of other tourists and hikers.
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| Walking down to Watendlath Tarn |
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| "Full Spate" from Watendlath Tarn, note the flowing water on the trail |
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| Derwent Water, with Keswick at the end of the lake |
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| Bowder Stone, a glacial erratic |
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| Bridge Hotel in Buttermere |
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| Milking time, a 4-wheeler with border collie co-pilot, another on foot working and "Brown Dog" helping |
From the guide book, we had picked out a loop hike east of Keswick, which first went along the lake front to Friar's Crag, a headland with a view across the lake, then climbed up below Walla Crag to a high point, and then northeastward to the Castlerigg Stone Circle. The uphill climb was in forest (Great Wood) and the several miles to the stone circle were through pastures and gates.
The Castlerigg Stone Circle is comprised of 38 stones grouped in an oval about 110 ft in diameter, with an additional 10 stones inside the circle outlining an altar or something. Situated on a plateau and surrounded by a series of large fells, it feels like a dramatic amphitheater. As with all prehistoric stone circles, no one knows what Castlerigg was used for. It has been dated to the Bronze Age, probably erected around 1,500 BC. There were hikers atop just about every fell on the horizon, and we could see trains of people going up Cat Bells and Skiddaw.
We walked a short cut back down to Keswick to avoid a damaged bridge over a beck (a serious storm in December 2015 damaged a number of facilities in the district). We stopped at the Pack Horse pub off the main market square for a baguette and ciders and then caught the 3:30 pm bus back to Ambleside.
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| "There's good grass up here" |
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| Mellbreck Fell, west of Crummock Water |
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| Cat's Bell (left) and Skelgill Bank (right) over Derwent Water |
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| 360 degree panoramic view from the center of Castlerigg Stone Circle |
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| Brass Medallion at Castlerigg Stone Circle showing the stones and the ring of fells visible from it |
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