New Zealand Day 29

Today was a celebration of Maori culture with a visit to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds.  This is across the bay from Russell and is where the Treaty of Waitangi was negotiated and signed in 1840.  As with most, if not all, such treaties between indigenous peoples and incoming settlers, in this case the British, the Maori got shafted.  While the treaty is credited by both "races" for creating New Zealand as a country, the Maori believed they would get more benefits then they actually got.

But first, we had to travel to the Treaty Grounds, which entailed catching a passenger ferry from the Russell pier over to the grounds.  On the way to pier, we stopped for a few minutes to watch a lawn bowling tournament. Leslie and Kathy discovered the bowling green yesterday and were treated to a lesson on how to handle the uneven balls,

All of the players were at it still when we came back in late afternoon.

One of the passenger ferries.

An odd sailing catamaran, since it has two masts, sitting side by side.  Turns out it is a charter boat rentable for ~$2,700 per day for up to 6 passengers.  It was refueling.

A Maori statute holding the two traditional weapons (spear and white "paddle), located at the end of the Russell Pier.  A famous quote - "Women roles is to bring life, men take life."

Russell from the ferry.

The ferry crossing was fine, over choppy water, and delivered us directly to Waitangi, which saved us a 30-minute walk from the normal stop in Paihia.  Where we landed  was a yacht club which was launching solo young people in small sail boats for training, practice and/or racing.  The wind was such that the sailors took off with gusto across the open bay.

Probably 50 or so of these boats set sail, with assistance from a crew of adults.  The little fleet was accompanied by numerous chase or rescue motor boats, and we did not see a single capsize.

Exterior of the Waitangi Museum, explanation in the photo that follows.

We had two events inside the treaty grounds.  First was a 40-minute tour of the major parts of the grounds.  The second was a cultural performance at a traditional Maori meeting house. 

First stop on the tour was to Ngatokimatawhaorua, a 35-meter, 6-ton war canoe, built  in 1940 for the centenary of the treaty signing.  It sets the record for the largest dugout canoe in the world and is taken out once a year on Waitangi Day, which is February 6th.  Forty men paddle on each side and there are 40 men in the middle who trade off as paddlers.

The canoe is made from the trunks of 3 kauri trees.

Our Maori tour guide, who did a masterful job explaining the culture and painting a balance picture of the early history.

This is the backyard of a house James Busby built.  He was the "official British resident" who received the Treaty after it was signed.

This is the front of the house.  It was constructed in Australia, each joint member was numbered, then  disassembled  and shipped in pieces to NZ.  Busby spent 500 days reconstructing it.  

The start of the cultural performance.  The Maori chief must first determine if the other tribe - the audience for today's purpose -  is coming in peace or for conflict.

The offering for a peaceful meeting.

Our designated, temporary, chief, who thanked the Maori for allowing us to join them.

The meeting house front.

The troupe who danced, sang and demonstrated traditional Maori activities, including songs, dances, and demonstrations of martial moves with spears and clubs.  Many of the actions were accompanied by fierce expressions with wide eyes and extended tongues.  The young women did a dance with twirling balls that was particularly charming. 

We caught a shuttle ride from the Treaty Grounds to the ferry dock in Paihia and almost immediately boarded a small ferry for an easy ride back to Russell.  Betsy and I looked at a couple of gift shops and then walked up to the Top 10 Holiday Resort and our "villa."  We had afternoon tea and played our daily word games (Wordle and Quordle).  

We had an early dinner reservation at the posh Duke of Marlborough Restaurant, at which we treated Varis in return for his hosting us in Takapuna and for his suggestions on where to visit in NZ.  The trip is winding down for some of us and we are happy to have spent time at places that were special to Varis and his wife, Judith.  

We got back to our villa just before the heavy rain started.  A cyclone, Gabrielle, is assaulting NZ for the next few days which may disrupt our travel home.  It has already forced Leslie and Dennis to depart the country 2 days later than  originally planned.  They got an email from Air New Zealand saying that they needed to adjust their travel plans due to flight cancelations.  So far, Betsy and I have not received a similar message - fingers crossed.  The prediction is for many inches of rain and strong winds on Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday.