Tuesday, August 23, 2016

Tenby Day 8 & 9

August 21 and 22:  Gale force winds, rain, often heavy, and in the lulls, almost always mist.  As  a result, we have done very little these two days.  We watched the closing day of the Olympics and a replay of the closing ceremony today.  We watched several movies on TV in between Olympics.  The movie channels have long commercial breaks; the BBC Olympics have none.  We got out for a short walk around town late afternoon yesterday and  today, we went out to the store mid-afternoon in heavy mist with light rain.  All of the tourists in town are probably going stir crazy as we are.

We dared to look at the weather forecast this morning.  It should improve by Tuesday, with Wednesday the best day, before turning back to unstable weather.

We bought train tickets for our trip to London on Saturday.  And we bought theatre tickets for Monday night to see The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night when we get to London.

Today, we broke out a picture puzzle (a scene of Tenby harbor) and have put most of it together.

Life is relaxed.

Tenby Day 10

August 23:  Today, the weather was much better with sunshine all day with high, thin clouds and no wind!  We walked about 11 miles loop, going northwest roughly along the B4318 to Gumfreston, to the Activities Park, to St Florence, along the National Cycle Network #4 track back to Tenby's South Beach, and through Tenby to our flat.

We started out early for us, found a walking path that left from a nearby residential area, and walked through some forest and farm pastures before joining the B4318, a secondary road leading to Pembroke, thus lots of traffic.  The farm tracks were a bit mushy and muddy, so the road was drier and cleaner.  Our first notable sight was the 11th Century Gumfreston Church and Holy Well, an ancient pilgrimage site.  The Well is actually a spring just downhill from the church.  The church was open, provided a good explanation of its history, and has a nice timber framed roof.

The entry on the left side is the original 11th century part (pre-Norman); the rest is Norman and built in the 12th century
On leaving the church, we nearly stepped on a brown snake, which we think is actually a 'Slow Worm.'  It is a legless lizard, often mistaken for a snake and does not lay eggs.


We walked on the verge of the road, arriving at the Heatherston Activities Park, a family-oriented amusement park with a variety of activities such as go karts, ziplines, mazes, shooting ranges, miniature golf, bumper boats, and the like.  We stopped in to use the bathroom and decided to play a round of miniature golf on a course with pirate themes.  We played 18 holes and were neck and neck, but Betsy won by a stroke on number 18.  She shot par and I was one over.  We both enjoyed the sand traps and went into the water hazards several times.  We celebrated our round with cups of ice cream (mint c-chip and honey comb/vanilla).

"Walking on Water" activity for youngsters at the Park, a lesson in 'center of gravity'
The winner on 14
The loser
We turned the corner of our walk, heading south into the pretty, well tended village of St Florence.  After commenting on how nice and neat it was, we saw a plaque that proclaimed it 'village of the year' and 'nicest village of 2004.'

We joined a cycle way in St. Florence, and except for a short detour on a farm path, we walked the one-lane, quiet back road all the way to Tenby.  We went through another large caravan park, on the site of an old limestone kiln.  We even went inside a 'show caravan.'  It had a nice big great room, but tiny bedrooms.  For just 45,000 pounds, one can have a year round vacation home near the beach with all utilities.  The caravan park connected with South Beach and we wandered out on the sand, watching swimmers and dogs and sand diggers.  We then climbed up into Tenby for drinks and snacks at the Tenby Harbor Brewery.



We stopped briefly at our flat and then walked down to North Beach.  It was about 4:30 by this time and the tide was far out, although the day was still sunny and warm.  We dropped off our sandals and walked out to wade in the sea, as therapy for our tired feet.  The sand is clean and stone-free  all the way out, which makes wading a joy.  We saw one guy hunting for sand worms by sticking a tube into the sand, pulling out a wad of sand that he shot out of his tube, making a strange pattern.  For every hole, he seemed to suck out one or two worms, presumably for bait.





Sunday, August 21, 2016

Tenby Day 6 & 7

August 19 and 20:  Another 2-day blog post and two days of hiking for us.  On Friday, we had our appointment to drop off the rental car in Pembroke Dock (the industrial/dock lands for the city of Pembroke, NW of the main downtown).  We managed to get to the Europcar office by going the wrong way around, on narrow, frustrating roads and passing an overturned car in the ditch (if one can say ditch when they really don't have any space on the side of the roads here). The road was twisting and slick, and we guess that too much speed was involved.  The Europcar representative inspected our car, recorded the mileage, etc., pronounced it "brilliant" and gave us a receipt.  I had driven just over 2,000 miles without a scratch (though with a lot of cursing at near misses).


It was raining hard, but we had no option other than to walk to Pembroke-proper, about 2 1/2 miles away, along a bikepath luckily.  We reached downtown via the Mill Bridge that leads up to several parallel streets running along the top of a small rise with the Castle at one end.  The mill pond (and what once was tidal water) is on three sides of the castle.  We walked around the castle but decided to not pay to enter - after Hampton Court in London, we don't need to pay to visit any more castles.  Instead we found The Cake and Tea Shop and stopped for tea/coffee and scones.  We also dried out mostly.  We had plenty of time to wait - we had a single bus to catch at 1:15 pm that would take us to Bosherton, south and nearly at the coast and the path we were walking for the remainder of the day.

Pembroke Castle
It stopped raining while we were in the tea shop and we still had an hour, so we walked along the city's Mill Pond Trail.  It is a small wildlife area with ducks, swans, otters, frogs, birds, etc. created when Mill Bridge was built and a railroad embankment  isolated the upper part in the mid-1800s.  The Upper Pond silted up and is mostly marsh now and frankly, the main area was shallow and had lots of water plants and algae.  It is a good nursery for swans - we saw six cygnets still in their gray plumage but with long necks.


Mill Pond, with Castle in back

We walked back to the bus stop by way of the main road.  Pembroke was the seat of power in western Wales and is the birthplace for Henry VII.  "Reforms, etc." by son Henry VIII, diminished the importance of the town for this area and the power shifted elsewhere, though shipbuilding remained an important business, thereby creating Pembroke Dock.  It has access to the ocean.

We caught a small bus that drove south past the towns of Freshwater East, Stakepole Quay, and Stackpole to Bosherton where we got off (just short of St. Govan's Point).  About 2 pm, we began a 7+ mile hike, first around some lily ponds and then along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path (186-mile trail that follows the Welsh Coast from near Cardigan (on the west) to just past Saundersfoot (in the east)).  We went by and crossed over 3 lily ponds in the shape of a trident, formed by a dam at the mouth of Broad Haven, just inland from the beach.  The ponds were constructed by local gentry many years ago (1800s).  Two of the legs are spring-fed and support lilies.  The third and largest leg/pond receives surface runoff, and with the fertilizers and nutrients in the runoff, is free of lilies. The area hosts a variety of wildlife, with herons and otters being the big 2.  

Lily Pond

Broad Haven, with Lily Pond behind

We reached the Coast Path at Broad Haven Beach and started up onto the headlands, zigzagging along the edge of dramatic sandstone and limestone cliff edges.  We had mostly good weather, but a couple of brief rain showers skidded by, momentarily wetting us with sideways rain.  The wind was constant and "fresh," but mostly behind us.



'Old Red Sandstone'
We walked by Stakepole Quay, reportedly the smallest harbor in Wales, where limestone was shipped out of for use as building blocks, and a couple of fine, protected beaches with people playing in the waves.  We arrived at Freshwater East, our overnight stopping point, around 5:30 pm.  I had arranged a room in a B&B at Thorntrees, which turned out to be a private home in which the owners, a retired couple, rented out a single bedroom.  It was quite nice but a bit uphill from the Coast Path.  They had a large golden retriever named Darcy, who greeted us every time we came to the front door.

We had tea, cleaned up, and walked into town for dinner at the one and only place.  We had drinks while we waited for the kitchen to catch up before taking our dinner order.  We both had chicken, leek, and ham (bacon, really) pies with peas.  We returned to Thorntrees for a brief conversation with the owners and the youngest of their four children (all grown).  They were intent on the Olympics, particularly show jumping and women's field hockey, which Team GB won.  (I bet you didn't see either event on NBC.)  They had all walked the entire Coast Path at least once.

We had a pleasant sleep, though the wind was fierce outside, rattling the windows with some occasional rain.  We got up and were served a hearty breakfast in the main room of the house.  We walked back down to the beach to pick up the path and again zigzagged along the cliff edges, down to beaches or low points and then back up to the headlands.  The climbs were never above 300 feet, but in a stretch of about 7 miles we gained a total of 1,600+ feet in cumulative altitude.  The wind blew hard all day, but fortunately from the seaside inland, so we were pushed landward,as opposed to toward the cliff edges.  There were places where the edge was within a few feet of the trail.  The trail is well groomed/worn and in the British tradition, goes straight down and straight up, though we had a couple of switchbacks on the very steepest parts.  With the roaring wind, raging surf, thorny hedgerows, and jagged rocks, it felt like a very hostile environment.

The wind is blowing upslope left to right
We detoured off the path slightly at Manorbier to get out of the wind and to cut off a bit of the headlands, which we had seen plenty of.  We cut off Lystep Point also but had to walk through the largest caravan resort/park ever imagined.  It extended along a 3/4-mile long beach front, known as Lydstep Haven.  Not a single person was on the beach, with the winds and high tide  We arrived at the Army's rifle range at Penally, and concluded our walk back to Tenby along the railroad, as we had previously done on a walk earlier in the week.  Total distance for two days was 21 miles.

Vertical limestone, called Church Doors


We had dinner out, since we were tired and didn't have any food in the flat, at a small bistro with photos of Tom Jones on the wall.  The owner had had his picture taken with Tom and we shared with him our "levitating bandanas" competition (see photos below).

Actual wind, or what I call my levitating bandana trick

Levitating bandana trick one by Varis in Portland (hot and I bet no wind); Varis wins the "best looking bandana" prize
Levitating bandana trick two by Ron in Colorado (looks hot and I don't know what the wind is doing)

Thursday, August 18, 2016

Tenby Day 5

August 18:  Today was sheep dog trials day.  We drove about an hour and half north to a farmer's pasture and joined about 15 active participants and a couple dozen observers for the south Wales competition.  We watched the trial for about 4 hours.  The dog, almost all border collies, truly seem to enjoy this work and are so focused on doing the right task at the right time.

We first saw several novice dogs or youngsters who were still learning the ropes.  The trial is ordered in the following way:
  1. Outrun - the dog runs out around the field to 3 or 4 sheep released at the far end of the field.
  2. Gather - the dog collects the sheep and gets their attention.
  3. Fetch - the dog drives or urges the sheep straight back to the shepherd through a gateway about 20 feet wide.
  4.  Drive - the dog guides the sheep around the shepherd and back out to two other gatesways, one on the right and one to the left.
  5.  Shed - the dog and shepherd work together to position the sheep within a circle and split them into 2 groups.  The maneuver is successful only if the dog runs between the sheep to the shepherd.
  6.  Pen - the dog and shepherd again work together to move the sheep into a 15-foot, three-sided pen, with a gate on the fourth side.  The shepherd has a crook but cannot touch the sheep.  The sheep are released at this point and they scurry down the field to a gate into another pasture.

All of this must been accomplished within some time limit but we never got an understanding of the amount of time allowed (and it may have varied by the dog's  level of experience).

Of all of the trials we watched, we saw maybe 3 shepherd and dog pairs complete the run.  Once a dog did not complete the required step, the shepherd could "practice" any of the skills.  For example, if the sheep didn't go through the first gate, most shepherds brought the dogs back and either attempted the shed or the pen.  The novice dogs get the benefit of the experience, and the mature ones show off their talents.

We also saw some very ornery sheep who weren't going to be pushed by a little dog, who followed a dominant ewe who would not go where it was being directed, or who were closely attached to each other.  We saw some hoof beating on the ground (a sign of a possible charge by the sheep) and several nips on the sheep by the dog (an immediate stoppage of the run by the dog).  Although all the sheep seem to be the  about same size and condition, the temperament of any batch was purely random.

The other interesting thing we learned were the commands used by the shepherd.  "Go Bye" means go to the left of the sheep; "Away" means to go around to the right; "Walk On," "Lie Down," and "Stand" are obvious commands.  When the run is over, the command is "That'll Do."   All of these commands can be spoken or whistled using some sort of the triangular mouthpiece.  

Attempting the Shed

Trying for the Pen

"You want me to go where?"

A successful Pen ultimately

Focus, focus, focus....
We drove back to Tenby for a beer, the Olympics, and dinner.  BBC Sport shows many more sports at the Olympics compared to US network coverage, and with no commercials.  They also use two channels.  But like the US, the BBC follows "Team GB" athletes and has long-winded interviews with medalists.

Wednesday, August 17, 2016

Tenby Day 3 & 4

August 16 and 17:  These have been quiet days with lots of reading and a couple of moderate walks, for the exercise.  Our first walk was to the next vacation town north about 3.5 miles, past beaches, cliffsides, woodlands, and pastures.  The trail went up and down and thus we rewarded ourselves with freshly made scones and ciders.  The day was warm and sunny, with lots of folks out on the beach.  We enjoyed our break in a beer garden next to the beach.

Pembrokeshire Coast Path sign (follow the "acorn")

Low tide at Sandersfoot, the next town north of Tenby
 We walked back to Tenby via a bike route on the inland secondary (tertiary?)  roads  - easier on the feet and less up and down.  It was also shorter, being a more direct route.

The plaque on the side of Croft House, where we are staying
Our second walk was southwest along South Beach during low tide as far as Giltar Head, then up onto the Coast Path, bypassing an military firing range (in use) and back to town along the railroad line.   The day was cooler so fewer people were on the beach, but there were more dogs relishing the sand and sea.  We stopped at the Tenby Harbour Brewery to sample their RFA Sir Galahad, a "red ale."  I bought a gift pack of 3 beers to bring to the flat for private drinking.  We got the red ale, the IPA which I had tried on a previous outing, and the amber ale "Northstar."  While 'rehydrating,' we watched some Olympic track and field events on the telly.

South Beach with Tenby on the high ground

Giltar Head


Note the warning "Cliffs Kill, Keep on the Path"

View back to Tenby showing all of South Beach

Giltar Rock

Tuesday, August 16, 2016

Tenby Day 1 and 2

August 14 & 15:  We have had 2 low-key days doing domestic things.  On Sunday, we shopped for essential groceries, did 3 loads of laundry (in the basement of our building) which entailed walking up and down 4 flights of stairs and hanging everything on wooden racks in the laundry room, and scoped out the town.  Today (which was warm and sunny), we did some more shopping, and we each got haircuts (and a beard trim for me).  We also explored more areas of the town, sat overlooking the beach, and strolled and waded along the beach.  This is a vacation spot for families and since the weather has gotten nice, they are out in large numbers.  The beaches are ideal for small children, with little to no waves and broad stretches of fine sand.  We have gotten our feet wet, but it is too cold for swimming.  Many of the kids and most of the ocean swimmers have wet suits.

Tenby is a small pretty city located atop a headland with steep cliffs all around and nice sandy beaches on the sides.   At the end of the headland is the ruins of a fort, and the town center is surrounded by a mostly intact medieval wall.  Inside the wall is a busy retail zone that is restricted to pedestrians (and dogs and baby carriages) between 11 am and 5:30 pm.  In contrast to the Lakes Districts, where camping and hiking supply shops predominated, here you can buy beach gear - brightly colored plastic pails, shovels, wind screens, bathing floats, etc.  Every other shop seems to be a fish and chip place - it's astonishing to think how many tons of fish and chips are eaten across England daily.  Most of the buildings in this part of Wales are painted pastel colors, and I have also seen cinnamon and pumpkin-colored houses.

We have watched the tidal movement with amazement.  At high tide, the beach below us is a generous 80 yards deep.  At low tide, the entire basin is empty, the stone pier and the boats are high and dry.  You can walk 1/4 mile out before getting your feet wet - on very soft, clean sand - none of the cobble stones common on other English beaches.   High tide was between 4 pm and 5 pm yesterday, and people were still walking down to the beach that late in the day.

The harbor at low tide
North Beach is in the background
South Beach, all sand

Monday, August 15, 2016

Chester to Aberyswyth to Tenby

August 12 and 13:  Two travel days to finally arrive in Tenby, our home for the next 2 weeks.  We left Chester for Aberystwyth, Wales and made two stops - the first was at Llangollen and the second was at Dolgellau.   Billboards advertising horse drawn canal boat rides attracted our attention to Llangollen so we stopped to stroll around town, along with many other tourists.  There was a pretty river, a historic steam train, and cute shops.  The canal proved to be uphill from the river and we watched a trio of canal horses being fed scones, which they seemed to like.  We then wandered along the canal and found the pavilion for the Eisteddfod,  a world-renowned Welsh choir festival held in early July.  We returned back across the bridge to our car.  We next drove up and over several low ranges, past a reservoir or two and down into a broad valley to the town of Dolgellau.  It is a small, compact town full of stone buildings.  Because the day was chilly, we had coffee and snacks at Y Siop (Welsh for 'Tea Shop', we guessed), and then walked around town.


Note Thomas the Train on the left

The entrance to the Eisteddfod
We reached Aberystwyth, a sea-side town and after some driving around found our hotel for the night off a modern retail strip.  I did some computer work, namely publishing 5 days worth of travel posts.  Then we walked into the town center and to the seafront. On one end is a high hill with a electric railway running up the side and on the other is a castle ruin.  In between was an entertainment pier and a long beach with enough wave action for surfing (with wet suits, naturally).   We picked out a Greek restaurant for dinner (The Olive Branch), which gave us some tasty small plates and a nice Greek white wine (in practice for the sailing trip next month).


Old College
The Olive Branch, a Greek cafe
On our second day of driving, we went southwest along the Welsh coast to Cardigan,  Fishguard, and then to St. David.  We stopped for a break at St. David.  It is one of the most western points on the coast of Wales and is the location where the patron saint of Wales first landed, in the 5th century.  There is a famous 11th century cathedral erected here and named St David.


Inside the cathedral

Front view of the cathedral

Behind the cathedral, there is a ruin of an "Earl's Palace" with very nice modern entry gates.   A father and daughter were admiring the gates as we walked up.  They were finding the small hidden animals, a bird's nest with tiny eggs, cobwebs, and the like, crafted into the gate.  It turns out the father was one of the creators of the gate, which was donated to the palace earlier in the year.
Earl's Palace with wedding pictures being taken in front

A new metal gate, with the maker shown on the left
We arrived in Tenby and after some wandering, finally found the building in which our flat is located.  The building is called Croft House, it has 11 apartments on three levels, and is across the street from the cliffside that goes down to North Beach.  We are in number 10 with a view inland to the west, and not to the beach.  Looking south from outside the front door of Croft House, one sees this.  The small boat harbor in the distance, is empty of water twice a day for about 6 hours (3 hours either side of low tide). Because of the vast tidal swings, the boats sit fully exposed on the sand.


There is brewery in downtown Tenby that brews very good beers.  This is an IPA  named for a ship - Caldey Lollipop.


North Beach at nearly high tide