Wednesday, March 22, 2017

Woodworking in Costa Rica

March 22, Wednesday - After another buffet breakfast (fruit, yogurt, granola, scrambled eggs, sausages, pastries and coffee), we "Ubered" to the southwest of our hotel about 3 miles and about 300 feet up to Biesanz Woodworks that we read about in our guidebook.


We arrived in about 12 minutes at what looked like a closed, empty building with heavy iron grill work over everything. However after we paid off our driver, the showroom manager came out, unlocked the door and ushered us in.  Minor, his name, explained that it was best to tour the "ecological garden" and the workshop before looking around in the showroom. 

We went out back which has a variety of trees and bushes surrounding a pond.  The owner is a "planter" of trees and uses mostly trees that have died or been blown down.  Later, we saw that he has a huge inventory of tropical hardwoods.  He came to Costa Rica in 1972 from Detroit.  He lives further up the road on a mountaintop farm.  The showroom manager said that all of his employees, including himself, had worked for him for over 30 years.  We saw four guys at work in the shop.



Around the pond the manager pointed out some trees and flowers.  There was a pair of green herons building a nest in one of the trees and an amiable three-legged dog patrolled the yard and begged for rubs.  The shop was in the far corner of the lot and has a number of open-
 air rooms.  The first room was lumber storage for bowl-turning blanks and the like, equipped with two bandsaws for rough shaping of the blanks.  The next room was full of first turnings that were "drying," some for as many as 20 years. Every product involved years of drying from start to finish to assure stability.




We then passed into the actual work area with drill press driven sanding wheels, lathes and workbenches.  Two guys were sanding, one guy was gluing up six-sided boxes and the last was working on a lathe sanding rings and bracelets.  We got demonstrations of turning an aged, first- turned bowl which showed the change in color of the wood as the outer layer was cut off, and then cutting off a finished bowl from the faceplate base.  The last room was for lumber storage - they had large "stickers" piles of wide one to two-inch thick lumber. 


I don't know if you will be able to see in the photos, but the sanding guys used box fans positioned to get one side to blow the sawdust away from them.  It was a creative way to control dust.  They did use face masks when turning at the lathe though.


We retuned to the showroom and marveled at the many varied designs, the beautiful grain patterns and the silky smooth finishes.  No piece was stained and they prided themselves on not using any toxic compounds, although  they steep the bowls in a tank of rum to season them and to stabilize the wood.  We bought a few small items for gifts.  And I got many more ideas for things to make back in my shop.



We left the showroom after getting some advice on the best route to walk back to our hotel and successfully made it in about a hour.  Most of the roads had verges or narrow walking paths next to a constant parade of cars and trucks.  We stopped at a bakery for drinks and a snack.

After a rest in the hotel, we wandered over to the park in search of birds.  Surprisingly, we spotted several including both varieties of ducks - Muscovy and Black Belly Whistling, a Great Egret, a Lineated Woodpecker, a small greenish colored warbler which was too indistinct to identify, 2 parrots, and a White Winged Dove.

We gathered for our tour group introduction at 6 pm.  The two leaders are young Costa Ricans, Erick and Reimer and the group totals 19 people.  There is a group of 8 people from California who know each other and two other groups of four who are traveling together.  We have one single woman and us.  We had a group dinner after getting the program briefing for tomorrow.  

A Second Look at San Jose

March 21, Tuesday - Today, we slept in, had a buffet breakfast in the hotel and then went exploring.  We crossed into the sports park walking past a huge stadium, baseball fields, a artificial lagoon and the Art Museum.  

Soccer stadium

We then walked east through the central retail and market zone, passing through two indoor markets.  The first had a little bit of everything, from hardware to cell phones to watches, etc.  The second market had stalls with produce and meats, and lots of cafes in the middle.  


We walked through a modern plaza adjacent to the National Theatre. It was built in the 19th century, neoclassical in design.  We went past it to the Mercado Artesenal, which was the local craft market.  We found several interesting items, presumably locally-made, including wood crafts, weavings, painted feathers, and brightly-colored clothing.  We were intrigued by folding drip coffee  makers and bought a ingenious wood trivet that folds up.  It may a pattern for a future project at home.  


We left the bazaar and found the Jade Museum next door.  We bought tickets and toured exhibits on six floors of pre-Columbian craved stones, pottery and other artifacts.  Costa Rica has multiple sources of jade and learned to make beautiful, decorative and ceremonial objects.  The museum did a good job in presenting how the objects were crafted and used.  It was all done with primitive tools, such as string cutters and hand drills.  We came away with a good sense of the sophisticated nature of the early culture. 


It rained while we were in the Jade Museum, so we took a break for ice tea in the museum’s cafe.  We then walked into an historic residential neighborhood with old, but seedy villas for former coffee merchants.  All of the properties were surrounded with security fences, even those not refurbished (they were chain linked).  


We walked back to the hotel by way of the sports park having covered over 8 miles for the day.   We rested in our room before going out for dinner.  I talked with the hotel manager to get suggestion for restaurants.  He recommended fish, Italian and Mexican restaurants, in three different directions from our hotel.  Betsy choose Mexican, which was a ten-minute walk west of the hotel, downhill.  It proved to be very nice with excellent food and attentive service, though the only English speaker who took good care of us.  He was from Nicaragua, live near the restaurant where he has worked for 15 years.  We meet the owner and had his mother’s preparation for pollo (chicken filets, caramelized onions, cheese and herbal white sauce with potatoes and fresh vegetables).  It was so good we may return to Andale Chee a second time.  

Monday, March 20, 2017

8 Degrees North of the Equator


March 20, Monday - Up at 5:15 to catch a ride to airport from Fasten, Austin's version of Uber or Lyft.  Easily through luggage check and security (premium access as well as TSA pre-check).  We were at the United Airlines club lounge by 6:45, with an hour until our plane to Houston boarded.  We had a light breakfast in the lounge. 

Quick flight to Houston, airport tram to international gates, and early boarding in first class.  We had lunch around 11 o'clock our time and the usual other tweedling  (hot towels, nuts, drinks). I watched movies - Dr. Strange, with Benedict Cumberbatch in a metaphysical thriller.  Betsy read New Yorker.  We flew across the Gulf of Mexico and Cancun Peninsula arriving in Costa Rica at 12:30, local time.  Long wait at immigration but no issues; customs involved machine screening of all luggage and even though we filled forms, they were never collected.

We caught a taxi for a 30-40 minute to our hotel for the next three nights.  The driver took side roads instead of Route 1, presumably to avoid traffic congestion or to bump the fare.  The fare was $30.  The hotel is located SE of the city center across from a large sports complex and park.  The city is at 3700 feet elevation and is ringed with taller mountains.  Although the day seemed hot, there was a refreshing breeze coming off the mountains. 

After checking in, we walked east along the park and then into the city center on a very busy central avenue.  The city is full of energy, but lacks any interesting sights; it is sort of ramshackle.  However, it is not seedy as Athens.  I called it a long, strip mall with lots car repair shops, bodegas, and small car lots.  The drivers are relatively polite to other vehicles and to pedestrians.  We walked until Betsy got tired of the crowds and we walked back to the hotel along some quieter streets.

We rested and rehydrated before dining in the hotel restaurant - Etnico.  I only took this one photo all day.

Imperial beer is the local lager



Sunday, March 19, 2017

Austin Local and Bats

March 19, Sunday - Today was spent in and around Austin.  I returned the rental car, after a nice, home-cooked breakfast.

We walked around John's neighborhood of Mueller, stopping at the farmers market.  We picked up pastrami and carrots for supper.




We than hung around the house for a few hours before leaving for beers/cider downtown.  We timed the departure to give us time to complete a volkswalk into the Travis Hieghts neighborhood, returning along Congress St to the Anne Richard's Bridge to see the bats emerge at twilight from under the bridge.



We caught a Fasten car (like Uber) from the bridge to John's house.

We enjoyed pastrami sandwiches with fresh carrots and a bottle of rose from Beckers.

We prepared for our departure tomorrow morning for Costa Rica.

Texas Hill Country

March 18, Saturday - (Betsy says it is over-rated).  Today we rented a car and drove west of Austin to the Hill Country, passing through Dripping Springs, stopping at the Black Spur for coffee, visiting the LBJ Ranch (Texas White House), and Fredericksburg (think Leavenworth on steroids).  On the way back to Austin we stopped at the celebrated winery Beckers and bought 3 gold medal wines.  The winery was having a Bluegrass, Blue Bonnet and BBQ festival.






LBJ pointing at his ranch across the Pederales  River (Pederales is flint stone in Spanish). Below a string of hardworking but unlucky leaf cutter ants (note the fallen/dropped bits).



Resident animals on the working Historical farm, part of the state park adjacent to the LBJ Ranch

  Texas Bluebonnets (Lupine to us)


Well tended goats at the LBJ Show Barn

The LBJ Ranch House surrounded by Live Oak trees




Becker Winery

Friday, March 17, 2017

Austin Volkswalk

March 17, Friday - Happy St. Patrick's Day.  We had a nice sleep overnight and got up ready to go (though 2 hours ahead).  We cooked breakfast of eggs, sausages and English muffins.

John drove us to a south side hotel which which is the start point for 3 different volkswalks.  We opted for the "Historic Capital" route, which took over the Colorado River, past the City Hall, Governor's Mansion, the State Capital, University of Texas campus and LBJ Library.

View of Downtown

City Hall and the Knot (crushed 55-gallon cans)

State Capital

Governor's Mansion

Capital dome

University of Texas Tower

We then walked back to the Texas History Museum, and toured it.  The exhibits included a special display of the "La Belle," one of four French ships recovered from a 300-year grave in a Texas bay, a music festival exhibit, a floor devoted to Texas history and another floor dedicated to the major economic activities of the state.  We choose to sit and watch the video vignettes as a way of resting our weary bodies.  One video of note was a collage of performers who had performed on Austin City Limits (a public TV music show).

Texas History Museum

La Belle

We started back toward the Volkswalk start point but I checked nearby brewpubs, found one about 2 miles away, and messaged John to meet us there.  We each had a beer, and then using the Internet/personal technology found a Mexican restaurant not too far away.  We have a nice dinner outside in a garden space.

Brewpub



Tamale House

We drove back to John's house.  The temperature was 80 degrees.  It is great to enjoy some nice warm and dry weather.


Thursday, March 16, 2017

On the way to Costa Rica via Austin, Texs

March 16, 2017, Thursday.  We were up early to travel to the airport to catch our flight to Austin, TX.  We arrived at the airport after walking to the bus stop, riding the bus to Parkrose, and riding MAX to the terminal.  We had checked in at home and for the first time ever, pre-printed our own checked luggage tags.    The tag gets inserted in a plastic holder and the luggage gets checked by an attendant before disappearing into the system.  

We had a leisurely breakfast at The Country Cat after passing security.  TSA Pre-check is well worth it. The flight was uneventful - we had "premium" seats which got us early boarding, four inches extra legroom and a free snack.  I watch a free movie on the inflight wifi network using the Gogo app - The Accountant.  Ben Affleck is a math wiz who can defend himself against his shady clients, drug lords, and unscrupulous business owners who have huge cash-based accounts.  There was lots of bloodshed and head shots.

We arrived to Austin and met up with John Rowan, who we are visiting for 3 days before traveling to Costa Rica.  He was delivering Teri, his ex-wife who had been visiting for the previous week, to the airport for her return to Portland.  We had enough time for a short get-together with Teri at an airport bar.

John drove us to the rental house where he has been staying for the past 2 months.  It is northeast of the downtown area about 6 miles.  We settled in and then walked to a HEB store for dinner at their outside cafe, followed by grocery shopping for breakfast supplies, etc.  The weather was warm and a gentle breeze blew up at dusk.  We walked home and finished up the evening watching NCAA games.