Monday, July 31, 2023

Upper Midwest Tour, Day 21 - July 30th

We had a reverse multi-modal travel day, leaving from Mackinac Island by water taxi, then driving to Petoskey State Park for a bicycle ride on the Little Traverse Wheelway, and finally driving to Orchard Beach State Park, near Manistee, MI.

We were up early, after a restless night.  There was a group of women who partied well into the night.  They must have been about 8 of them and it seemed that at least 4 to 6 of them would talk at the same time.  It was quiet for a while after dark, but the noise started up again at 2:30 am.

We were at the water taxi dock by 8:30 am to catch the 9 am crossing.  While waiting and on the trip back to the mainland I had opportunity to photograph the harbor, the Grand Hotel, and the Mackinaw Suspension Bridge again on a very clear day,



After arriving at Mackinaw City, I rode my bicycle to retrieve our car, while Betsy claimed our luggage.  Overall, the system for luggage transfer to and from your island hotel works very effectively - it is delivered to your hotel room and on the return trip, bike valets pick it up from the hotel room and deliver it to the dock, where the ferry company crew transfers it to the boat and then to the luggage claim area.

We drove about an hour, along State Highway 31, going through farm land (lots of farm stands), a couple of resort communities, and fishing lakes.  We stopped at Petoskey State Park, just north of Petoskey, a fairly good sized city, where  we unloaded our bikes to try a rails-to-trails route called Little Traverse Wheelway (LTW).  From looking at the map and my guidebook, we concluded that the ride toward Petoskey would be the most interesting leg.  The ride started at the head of the Little Traverse Bay and went westerly through chic Bayview, with Victorian homes set along the bluff overlooking Lake Michigan.  After Bayview, we crossed into the city limits of Petoskey, with its marina and the Bear River coming out perpendicular  to the lake front.  We rode part way up the scenic Bear River Valley and then retraced our route back to the city center.  

We found a neat little coffee shop a few blocks uphill from the lake front in what turned out to be a very prosperous and lively downtown - lots of nicely dressed people, particularly for a Sunday, many small shops open, and no vacant or boarded up store fronts.  We left our bikes at a convenient bike rack and wandered a few blocks.  We were drawn into a shop named "Dunworkin."  We bought a Christmas gift and I got a beer drinking tee shirt that was labeled "daily planner" and had 7 different shaped beer tap handles with the days of the week on the handles.

We rode back the way we came, covering about 12 miles in total.  I took photographs of the most decorative Victorian "cottage," with a dragon motif for its ridge line, and of the Petoskey Brewery, just before entering the State park.  We stopped in Traverse City (lots of lake front hotels) for groceries and gas, and then drove south.

The LTW is famous as an early rails-to-trails bike route.  It is 23 miles in length, we only saw a quarter of it.

In the distance is the State Park with its sandy beach.  The wind blew directly on to the beach and is probably why there are sand dunes.  The beach was busy with families enjoying the sand and the surf.

The bikeway follows the shoreline lined with limestone rocks.  The marina is in the distance.

Little  Traverse Bay had great wind and there were many boats out, probably some sort of regatta.


One of the major waterfalls in Michigan -- I am making this up, but the state is flat.  This is coming off the bluff that runs along the lake front.

Some of the Victorian homes on the bluff

The flashiest cottage...

with the dragon ridge line.



Our camp site in a crowded Orchard Beach State Park Campground.  The facilities are good, but without much  privacy.  I can't imagine how folks tow these behemoth trailers.  The people behind us have a RV, a second car, and a small flat bed trailer to carry all their stuff.

We walked the perimeter of the campground after setting up camp.  While the park overlooks the lake shore, there is no beach access, largely because it is a steep drop-off.  I was told at camp checkin that the beach is owned and managed by the city of Manistee and the State Park has no access to it.  But I think the geology is more the reason.  We prepared dinner and enjoyed a quiet evening, though the young kids were running around all over.  Quiet time kicked in at 10 pm.

 

Saturday, July 29, 2023

Upper Midwest Tour, Day 20, July 29th

Our final full day on Mackinac Island, with a morning bike ride and afternoon walk.  We visited a number of destinations that are documented by the photos.  The weather continues to be nice with clear skies.  Though, as I write this, there is one large ominous cloud overhead.  The temperatures are in the low 70s.

I have been saying that the island has no motorized vehicles, but I am wrong.  The fire truck/emergency vehicle is gas powered and, while walking this afternoon, I saw a traditional backhoe.  But for the tourists, it is considered vehicle-free.

View over the Mission Point Resort from Robinson's Folly.  The folly fell apart many years ago;  the overlook provides a glorious point for viewing sun rises (not that we were up that early).

Also from the overlook.

Mission Point Resort, reminding us of the Hotel del Coronado, San Diego.

The Edgar Speer freighter passing through the Mackinac Strait.


We biked and walked the Botanical Trail, with its many interpretive signs -- quite well done.  We were able to stop to read the signs and ride quickly through the boring bits.

An orchid, described on one sign, and if you look closely,  you can see the tiny flowers.

A possible woodworking project for the Portland woodworkers, in the form of a military block house.

The Grand Hotel, note below.  Very picturesque and expensive to stay.  One can view the inside for $10 per person - we passed.  The hotel stands on a hillside about 1/2 mile from the docks and tourist shops, so it is relatively quiet - except for the swarms of day-trippers.



Lots of flowers - the flower beds all over town are splendidly colorful.

For our midday break, we stopped at the Lucky Bean, "where locals get coffee."  It is popular and many folks disdain the Starbucks that has a shop on the Main Street.  Lucky Bean is on Market Street, the original main thoroughfare for the island.  I ordered an iced Miel coffee (?) and Betsy had a mango smoothie.  While sipping our drinks, we watched two guys who had horse poop duty for the street, going back and forth all day sweeping and scooping horse poo.  It's got to be a strange job for the 21st century,  We did some souvenir shopping, finding a loon for our annual Christmas ornament this year, and Betsy got a souvenir Mackinaw ball cap, before returning to the inn.

After a brief rest, we left for a short walk up around Mackinac Fort and back to town, again documented with a few photos.

A view of the island's Main Street

Anne's Tablet, a memorial to an author with connections to the island.

We next visited the gazebo that was built for a movie filmed on the island -- Somewhere in Time.  It starred Christopher Reeves and Jane Seymour in 1980.



We also walked by the summer residence for the Michigan Governor, which looked occupied but we didn't see anyone.


The Carriage Museum.

The deluxe swimming complex at the Grand Hotel.  We overheard a carriage driver say that it was renovated not so long ago for $17 million.

Main Street with the hordes of tourist and bikes.

We returned to the inn.  We retrieved our bikes and went to a local bike rental stand to get some air, specifically air in the tires.  We should be ready for our future bike excursions.

We just heard a bugle call and rifle fire from the fort, part of the Park Department's re-enactment activities.  The other evening we could hear taps at twilight, echoing across town.  Dinner was back at the Mission Point Resort, the Roundhouse Restaurant.  We celebrated with local fish -- white fish and walleye, and blueberry galette, but a California sauvignon blanc.

Foreground is whitefish, background is walleye.


Friday, July 28, 2023

Upper Midwest Tour, Day 18 and 19, July 27 & 28th

Yesterday was catch up on the previous day's post so today, I needed to cover both Thursday and Friday.  Thursday was a multi-modal travel day with one stop (at Soo Locks) and water taxi from Mackinaw City to Mackinac Island.  

Soo Locks, in Sault Set. Marie, is the 21-foot drop from Lake Superior into Lake Huron on the border between the US and Canada.  The locks, of which there are 3 and maybe a fourth under construction, allow ships to move from one lake to the other.  They are operated by the Corps of Engineers and have a very nice visitor center with full explanations of navigation locks.  Sorry, I am not going to go into that.  We watched two tourist boats enter the lock and rise from Huron to Superior.  The Corps workers on the dock ride around in neat little motorized carts; we saw none of them walking.  

A photo of the Soo Lock Complex.  The natural river with rapids is to the right (with fish passage).  There is one additional lock on the Canadian Side which would be in the far right of this photo.

The nearest lock chamber with the lower gate opening.

No walking is necessary.

Except when hooking boat lines to bollards


The first lock - note the sailing ship.

After the Soo Locks, we drove south about 50 miles to St. Ignace, MI, which is one of the water taxi ports for Mackinac Island, but decided to cross the Mackinaw Strait on the "largest suspension bridge in the US."  
 

There is a modest toll to cross the 4-mile long bridge, which stitches the Upper Peninsula and lower Michigan together and allows huge freighters to pass underneath.  We arrived in Mackinaw City, the other port for water taxis to Mackinac Island.  We bought tickets, bike licenses, checked our luggage, unloaded the bikes, and parked the car in a nearby lot.  We then boarded a Star Line Ferry, with our bikes.  

The ferry service runs about every half hour.  The trip is 8 miles in distance and takes about 30 minutes.

First view of Mackinac Island Harbor/waterfront.

The Grand Hotel.

The Round Lighthouse.

The Red Lighthouse.

We disembarked and claimed our bikes when the crew unloaded them.  We also identified our luggage to a bicycle-riding porter for our hotel, who delivered them to our room.  We rode through the throngs of tourists to The Harbor View Inn, which is located 1/4 mile from the main downtown area and is a block off the water front.

The Harbor View Inn, the main house (noted below), with 2 additional buildings behind it.



We checked in, stowed our bikes, had a snack of Wisconsin cheese and then strolled through the town.  It was still busy with day-tripping tourists.  We walked the length of the marina piers, seeing many very nice yachts and a few nice sail boats.  Nearly all of the vessels had Michigan registrations.  After walking to the approach for the Grand Hotel, we cut across a golf course (probably not allowed but there were no golfers) and ended up in Marquette Park.  We hung out until 6:30 pm to listen to the beginning of "Concert in the Park."  After a few numbers by a solo guitar player, we want to the Ice House Restaurant and had dinner -- spinach salad and very tender brisket, with a beer from Bell's Brewery (for me) and sangria (for Betsy).   Thus ended yesterday.

Today, we rode bicycles in the most stress-free manner possible.  The island has no cars nor any motorized vehicles (except golf carts and possibly fire engines).  Bikes and walking are the primary modes of travel, but taxis, tourist coaches, and island utility services are horse drawn.  Mackinaw Island feels like a New England coastal village, with sea gulls but without salt water.  

Our first ride was clockwise around the island along the road which follows the shoreline.  Most tourists chose to ride counterclockwise, so we encountered lots of oncoming traffic but had relatively open lanes on our side.  Cyclists are supposed to give way to the horse-drawn surreys and carriages but the horses seemed pretty chill and not easily stressed by wavering riders.

Limestone rocks of various sizes make up the beaches  We waded into the water, which is challenging since one is walking on ball bearings that shift with one's weight and hurt the feet.  The water was clear and not that cold. 

Garage "truck."

Arch Rock, a limestone arch created when the lake level was much higher.

Our first ride was 9 miles.  We then rested a while at the Inn's gazebo and had some fruit, before venturing out again to ride the interior of the island.  We rode uphill, arriving first at the airport, then going on to Wawashkamo Golf course, and then  British Landing.  We retraced our steps back uphill past the golf course and airport to Fort Holmes.  The island has two forts, both constructed originally by the British to protect their interests in the Great Lakes.  The area between British Landing and the Golf Course was the site of a battle during the War of 1812, that took place in 1814 - the British and allied local Indians whipped the American force.  We conquered another high point - not a state high point, but an island one.  We followed bike-only paths to the top of Arch Rock and back home.

Wawashkamo Golf course (with a historic clubhouse) located at the site of the 1814 battle, specifically where the British line was.

A horse-drawn street sweeper, manually unloaded by shovel and wheelbarrow. 

Fort Holmes.



The Blockhouse at Fort Holmes.

Reconstructed in 2015 using mortise and tenon-fitted, hand hewed timbers.


Sugarloaf Rock

View from the High Point.

View through Arch Rock.


Fort Mackinac


A typical residential street - very nice Queen Anne buildings with just the right amount of gingerbread trim.  Most of the island is a state park, with the hotels clustered around the port, but there are also number of private homes, probably very pricy.

We walked away from town to the Round Island Kitchen for dinner and had another fine meal, with beer from Potesky Brewing.  We liked dinner so much, we made reservations for tomorrow night, too.  The restaurant is part of the Mission Point Resort, a mega complex.


On the walk home we saw the Amazon Prime delivery guy -- horse drawn.