The Tour Ends with Celebration

March 31, Friday - At breakfast we were again entertained by the monkeys and the coati, which penetrated the netting but caused no trouble other than knocking over a trash bin.  (He had the air of a hopeful puppy.)

We rode  about 20 minutes to Carara National Park, for an easy walk through the dry, rainforest.  We sighted several more new birds, including a pair of shrikes (the male had striking black and white dappled markings) and a solitary white bat (I know, not a bird).  We also saw one of the basilisk lizards scoot over the water, a very dramatic effect.

Brown Basilisk 

Erick

White Bat (how do they spot these?)

Coordination between Erick and Reimer; Betsy looking for birds

We went back to hotel for final packing, lunch, and loading of the bus for our ride back to San Jose.  We stopped at a souvenir shop partway back and arrived at the Wyndham Hotel, about 3 miles from the airport, about 3:30 pm.  We had time for a swim in the big hotel pool before the final gathering of the tour group.   

A future woodworking project for me

We met for drinks and a final group debrief.  Everyone was pleased with the activities for the tour, thought that Erick and Reimer did an outstanding job and maintained their sense of humor with the group, that the bird sightings was extra special, and that we as a group melded together well.  Betsy organized the acquisition of everyone's e-mail addresses which should allow us to share photos, stories and to remain in contact.  Erick’s wife joined us at the close of the dinner as did Reimer’s girlfriend.  We enjoyed a last meal with wine.  We had a serenade from 3 guitarists who played traditional Latin music.  The group enjoyed it immensely and almost got up to dance.  We hugged and said our goodbyes before retiring to pack and prep for early departures tomorrow.

Ocean and River Touring

March 30, Thursday - Breakfast this morning included a show from the capuchin monkeys, cavorting on the netting that encloses the restaurant.  They were using the netting as a trampoline and having a ball.   A coati (smallish, raccoon animal with a sweet face) also wandered by looking for entrance and handouts.

Coati

Capuchin Monkeys

After breakfast, we all loaded into the bus for a 20-minute ride north along the coast to Kayak Jaco, a boat service owned by our lecturer of the previous evening.  It provides kayak tours, SUPs, snorkeling and outrigger canoe outings.  We were fitted with PFDs and given bamboo paddles, and then walked 300 yards to the beach where our 3 canoes waited for us.  Each canoe could seat 8 with a guide, and had two outriggers, one on each side.  We broke into 6-person crews and helped launch the boats into the surf and then quickly jump aboard.  Our crew included April, Sybill, Cheryl (three sisters living in PA, NY, and ME, respectively), Ken (husband of April and very strong), Betsy and me.  Erick and Reimer had their own sea kayak.

We paddled about 30 minutes south along the shore, switching paddling sides regularly.  We almost reached our resort beach but stopped one beach sooner.  We beached the canoes and explored the beach and adjacent tide pools.  There were tiny hermit crabs scurrying around, one pale orange and black “Halloween” crab and the guides plucked creatures from the tide pool for us to view and hold, including delicate sea stars and squishy sea cucumbers.  We also saw small fish in the pools, even some that hop/walk over the rocks as the pool  they are in heats up and/or evaporates.  We swam for a while - the water was too churned up for snorkeling.  The guides gave us fruit - watermelon and pineapple - as sustenance for the return trip.

Hermit Crab with perspective 

Fossilized remains

We re-launched the canoes and paddled back to base, enjoying the views and the fine day.  Ken fractured his canoe paddle, evidence of his strength.  Most of us bought souvenir shirts, which had an attractive design and are microfiber and long sleeved.  We rode back to the hotel for lunch.  

Between lunch and 3:00, we had quiet time.  We then took the bus further north to the Tarcole River, renowned for its birds and crocodiles, of which we saw many.  We were given a booklet that listed 58 birds to use a check list.  By the end of the ride, we had seen over 40 including some truly beautiful ones.  Among the prize species were the crested caracaras and the boat-billed herons which had huge round eyes.  We also saw all 4 ‘nicknamed’ crocs, ranging from 12 to 18 feet long.  A couple were swimming right next to the boat and many more crocs were lounging on or near the river banks.

Croc 'Michael Jackson'

Crested Caracara

Croc Tyson or Osama

We rode the boat to the mouth of the river where it meets the sea, just in time for a beautiful sunset marked by many pairs of scarlet macaws heading to their home nests.  Erick and Reimer celebrated a successful tour by buying each of us a beer or soda to enjoy during the sunset.

We returned to the hotel, had dinner with our crew mates and finished the night with a game of Quiddler with the sisters and Ken - Betsy won, I lost.    

Flying through the Air

March 29, Wednesday - After the usual breakfast drill, we loaded into the bus and drove about 10 minutes south along the coast to Vista Los Suenos, a zip line outfit. They efficiently fitted us into our gear (harness and chest rigging, helmets and gloves with a extra thick layer of leather in the palm of the glove). One guy gave us a briefing on safety and technique, including where to hold the cable, what to do if we start swinging, and how to manoever up the cable. They loaded us into a ‘hay’ wagon and with a tractor, hauled us up a steep, clay dirt, road, maybe a 1000 feet up into the forest.

The zip lines were laid out in a zigzag pattern running back down to the base and included 10 runs. Betsy and I brought up the rear of the group and thus had to wait while the staff hooked up and released the rest of the group. The main gear was a pulley that fit over the cable and could accommodate three carabiners. The center hole carried the main line from our harness, passing up through the chest harness, the second hole was for the safety carabiner and the third hole and carabiner kept the pulley connected to the person.

Each of us was connected to the cable by a staff person who held us in position until they got a signal that the cable was clear. We then sat back with knees bent and feet crossed, and the stronger hand resting on the cable behind one’s head. This position stabilized the body and didn't allow it to twist. The hand on the cable could also be used for braking. The other hand grasped the main strap below the pulley. Then we went whoosh— traveling from 300 feet up to 1000 feet along the cable to each platform built around a large tree. We detached from the cable and the safety line was hooked in a cable on the platform to prevent any falls while we waited for our next run.

A photographer was posted at the end of one run (no, we didn't buy the photos - $15 per photo or $35 for all on a DVD seemed expensive) and another run we could have hung upside down but chose instead to do it with no hands. As we approached each platform, there was a braking system and padding on the landing surface with a staff person to catch and unclip you. On two runs, we were instructed to brake after reaching the bottom of the cable arc, which involved pulling down on the cable with the upper hand. All other runs were made free fall, requiring the full momentum to reach the platform. Betsy had to pull herself up to one platform.  I came screaming in on most of the platforms, giving the braking system a workout.

Some of the women were initially anxious but after a couple runs, everyone was having fun and enjoying themselves. We were flying along up in the trees that we have been seeing from below and also had some good views to the ocean, albeit quick. We would do it again, given the chance.

We returned to the hotel for lunch. The afternoon was free time and we spent most of it at Playa Blanca (the white sand beach), nicer than the one we visited yesterday. It had soft white sand and turquoise water. We started by walking to the farthest point on the beach and then swam/floated in the bath temperature water. We traveled to and from the beach in a hotel shuttle bus. We were out long enough to pick up a little pink color but not burn.

We returned to the hotel, and took drinks to our neighborhood pool. While we were sitting there, a troop of white faced monkeys (Capuchin) came swinging in through the tree tops. The restaurant must put out bananas for them. They gave us quite a show of antics as they swung through the trees, and played and drank at a small water bath. They were alert to threats (including aggressive bigger monkeys) but did not seem concerned about the humans watching them from a few feet away.

After showering, we joined our group for a talk about living in Costa Rica from an American ex-pat who runs the outrigger boat rental operation we will be using tomorrow. He talked about practical things like buying property, taxes and finances, etc. Then it was time for dinner and then bed.

Travel to the Pacific

March 28, Tuesday - Today was a travel day, taking us west from Sarapiqui to Punta Leona, climbing a steep twisty road  over the continental divide and then down through the congested Central Valley to the Pacific Ocean. While on the bus, we climbed up to over 6,000 feet, passing very near to Poas Volcano, which was  only lightly wrapped in clouds today.   We probably could have seen the caldera and lagunas had we the time to detour there. 

Our first rest stop was at an overlook for the San Fernando Falls. The stop was at a former village that was wiped out in the 1990s due to an earthquake. The stop was famous for serving a hot sugary drink made from boiled-down cane sugar and had a number of bird feeders. The view of the falls was somewhat mundane compared to the bird sightings. 

There was a group of guys dressed in camouflage and holding super long telephoto lens cameras waiting for hours for 2 rare birds, which arrived just as we did. When they starting shooting rapid fire photos, so I did too, resulting in some great photos of the 2 types of Barbets endemic to Costa Rica.

Red Headed Barbet

Pronged Billed Barbet

Our second stop was for lunch at a place known for fresh strawberry drinks. We had the traditional lunch of rice and beans ("Casado") with meat/fish of one’s choice. We ate and got underway so that we could arrive to Punta Leona by 3:00 pm - the Costa Rica soccer team was playing Hondurasand our guides wanted to watch the game.

Rice and Beans with Chicken, with plantain, salad, and vegetable side, possibly yuca (not yucca the ornamental plant); the strawberry juice is shown in the upper right 

The Punta Leona is a big, modern resort, with amenities like TVs and air conditioning and stronger Wi-if.  The air is hotter and dryer here, so that bathing suits and towels wil actually get dry (when we opened our suitcase, we could still feel the moisture in our clothing from the Caribbean side.). Betsy and I changed in bathing suits and walked the half mile to the large swimming pool area, which was adjacent to the black sand beach (Playa Mantas).  Tomorrow, we will check out the other nicer beach Playa Blanca (white sand beach).

The pool water was quite warm as was the ocean. There were a pair or two of brightly colored parrots flying around over the pool area, though I was unable to get a photo. After some swimming and reading, we walked back to our room. On the way we saw Macaw nesting in the hollowed section of a tree.

We had dinner and turned in early.

Here are some more photos from previous days.

Baltimore Orioles

White Stripped Bat on the almond tree

Iguana

Green and Black Poison Tree Frog

Sarapiqui River

Hiking and Rafting

March 27, Monday - Today was spent hiking for a half a day and whitewater rafting for half a day.  In the morning, we walked 1.1 miles out across a suspension bridge over the Sarapaqui River, and up hill to the largest almond tree in the region - 150 feet tall and 400 years old.  The path went up and down in muddy, clay soils, over routes and small creeks.  The vegetation was dense but varied on both sides.  Along the way, Reimer, who led the walk, spotted 3 of the 7 poison tree frogs, one of which was a first for him.  Reimer also spotted a Motmot bird (one of three kinds), which some of us saw.  The motmot males, curiously, pluck feathers from their tails to make themselves more attractive to females.

The tree was impressive and Reimer said it survived logging because they didn't have saws large enough to cut it down.  In the rotted center there were a number of little White-Lined Bats in residence.  And we had a lecture on leaf cutter ants (five castes - queen, workers, soldiers, cleaners and males).  We walked back the same way that we came, arriving in time for lunch.  We are getting three meals a day, regular as clockwork.

After lunch, we rode about 7 kilometers from the hotel for whitewater rafting.  We had three rafts of 5 or 6 people.  Everyone was experienced and the outfitter was efficient in getting us into gear and doing the  safety briefing so we were on the river quickly,  We had an easy, fun ride in Class 1 and 2 Rapids.  The weather was just the right temperature with overcast skies and no rain.  Swimming in the river was quite pleasant, given that I fell in twice.  We had the usual paddle splashing between boats.  The water flow is regulated by two dams ,and the chief guide was anxious to finish before the flows dropped for the day.  Just before the end, we had a brief break for pineapple and watermelon slices.   Birds on the river included several varieties of heron, especially a “tiger heron,” migrating vultures bathing in the river daily, both turkey and black vultures, kingfishers, egrets, and cormorants.

We were back at the lodge by 4:30 in time for showers, a lecture at 6:00, and dinner at 7:00 pm.  The lecture was quite interesting yet depressing because it reviewed the worldwide threats to the earth's ecosystems (e.g., climate change), species extinctions, and genetic diversity.  The speaker, who was very articulate, said that there is not much interest in the ecosystem and genetic areas, and most of the  conservation activity is directed at saving "sexy" mammals - Jaguars in Costa Rica, pandas, Tigers, etc. He argued that these limited efforts has some benefits, but his solution and interest was on connecting national parks and private reserves with biological corridors.  

Chocolate

March 26, Sunday - Today was another travel day with us departing Tortuguero for Sarapiqui, the home town, or district, of both our guides.  The trip involved first a boat ride back to the river dock, our original embarkation point, and then bus travel to Sarapiqui, which is located in the central lowlands near the Nicaraguan border and still on the Atlantic side of the continental divide.

We arrived around 1:30 after stopping midway for lunch.  We got checked in, received an orientation and picked up our luggage. The hotel, Selva Verde, is set in a nature preserve and features pods of guest rooms set on platforms like tree houses.  It is noticeably warmer and more humid than the coast.  

At 2:40 we met up for a short drive for a “Chocolate tour.” Hilary, a native Tica, but named for our US presidential candidate, led the tour.  She was born at a time when Hilary Clinton was visiting Costa Rica.  The tour included a 20 minute walk to the demonstration area, first passing over the longest suspension bridge in Costa Rica, then along the   Sarapiqui River within the Tirimbina Rainforest Center.

Hilary told us about the cacao tree (curiously the flowers sprout right on the body of the tree rather than at the end of a branch), described where and how pods develop. From the flowers, broke open a ripe pod, and had us sample the raw bean that is surrounded by a sweet mucus.   We next learned how the beans are fermented and dried.  We gathered at a rustic kitchen area with bleachers and a worktable while Hilary and another woman demonstrated going from a dried bean to chocolate drinks, cocoa butter, and bars.  It is a rather complex set of steps that was discovered over time somewhat by chance.

Betsy got to try her hand at grinding roasted beans in a traditional stone metate, using  a heated, heavy oval stone or pestle.  Nowadays, they use a grinder to make a fine paste of chocolate which is then mixed and frothed with hot water.  We all got samples of this mixture with the possibility of adding 1) cornstarch (for thickening), 2) chili powder, 3) black pepper, 4) nutmeg, and 5) vanilla.  We tried two combinations to see how the taste of the chocolate changed.   Hilary then described making chocolate bars and guess what - we got to sample a 70% dark chocolate bar and 30% milk chocolate bar.  Finally, she gave each of us a little of 12 beans and offered to exchange them for two postcards - the beans were an early form of money.  We kept one packet (it will become a Christmas ornament and trade our other packet for the postcards (pictures of tree frogs and an iguana).

We rode back to the hotel and cleaned up for dinner.  We ate dinner with Laura, the world traveler, sailor for 10 years with her late husband, and immersion Spanish student.  The tables in the dining room seat four and it is not allowed to push them together.  As you may know, we have two groups of 4, one group of 8 and the 3 of us, hence the seating arrangement.  Laura is a someone who has been nearly everywhere and has some interesting stories.

Our last activity of the day was Latin dance lessons.  An American expatriate and her Costa Rican husband  (a former professional soccer player) led the class.   She first explained the dance, did a brief demonstration with her husband, and then coached us through the steps.  They showed us the merengue, salsa, cumbria (?) and a fourth one we don’t remember.  The steps weren’t very tricky but the Latin style involves a lot of hip motion that our Anglo bodies don’t do very well.  It was fun nonetheless.   

Kayaking and Wild Beasts

March 25, Saturday - After a buffet breakfast, we loaded into a “water bus” and motored along an inland canal, paralleling the coast, north to the other side of the volcanic plug (high bluff) for kayaking in a small river/canal that ultimately connects to the ocean.  Along the way we saw 2 small bands of Howler Monkeys yelling at each other across the river, a caiman lying on a log (the boat got within a few feet of it), and several birds, including egrets, orioles, kingfishers, herons, and vultures.

We arrived at the mouth of a small river, launched from the boat and paddled in 2-person plastic kayaks (‘sit-upons’).  The river was black with tannins and impossible to see through.  It was smooth as glass with impressive reflections.  The foliage was rain forest dense.  We spotted spider monkeys, heard the howler monkeys, had glimpses of many birds and butterflies, and spooked something off a log, probably a fresh water turtle.   On the way, I probably had the best sighting  — of a Green Basilisk Lizard lying on a branch over the water.  This lizard is bright green, has sail-like crests on its back and head, white and blue spots on its body and a long, striped tail.  It is known for its ability to ‘walk on water.’  When spooked and using its hind legs, it can run a long distance across the surface of water.   This trick is favorite nature video.

Everyone enjoyed the first water sport of the trip and seemed to have comparable skills.  We docked alongside the bus and all clambered aboard with no mishaps.  We were out for 1 1/2 hours.  On the way back to the hotel, we saw a troop of howler monkeys climbing and swinging high in riverside trees, eating leaves or fruits while hanging upside down by limb and tail.

After lunch, we had a couple of hours of free time, which Betsy and I spent around the pool.  We didn’t swim but got a little sun while reading and dozing.  At 3:00, we gathered up for a nature walk around the lodge grounds.  It was amazing the number of animals we saw in the one mile of walking we covered.  I probably can’t recall them all, but will try and have Betsy help out.  We saw:

* Spider and Howler Monkeys (adults and juveniles)

* Green Iguana (way up in a tree)

* Green Vine Snake and Boa Constrictor - the Boa was small and was nearly invisible

* Golden Orb Spider

* Keel Billed or Rainbow Billed Toucans - otherwise known as Fruits Loops Toucan

* Slaty Tail Trogon

* Purple Throated Fruitcrow

* Brown Basilisk Lizard

* Social Flycatcher

* Rufus Tailed Hummingbird

* Canopy Lizard

* Common Black Hawk

We cooled off with a swim and cleaned up for dinner. 

Note - no photographs of the kayaking, and others will be posted when WiFi is better.

Eco-tourism

March 24, Friday - Today was a very early morning - up at 5:20 am, so we could travel to Tortuguero, on the Caribbean side of Costa Rica.  We rode for 2 hours across the continental divide and through rain forests before stopping for breakfast.  Then we rode for another hour plus to the end of the road at a river dock, caught a river boat to a lodge across a canal from Tortugero.  We are now in one of the main centers for “eco-tourism” in Costa Rica.  The black sand beach of about 20 miles is the most important breeding ground for green sea turtles and is also used by four other turtle species.

Our travel today was punctuated with a number of interesting sightings.  The breakfast stop offered a chance to see a tree representing one of the largest species in Costa Rica, the kapok.  In addition, we saw a small bright red poison dart tree frog and both types of sloths, the brownish 2 toed and the greenish 3 toed.  

  

We passed by numerous cattle farms and banana plantations, getting a lesson on how bananas are grown and harvested - more complicated than you might imagine given the price for a “hand” of bananas in the grocery store.  We spotted numerous birds and an iguana on a fence post while bumping along an unimproved, dirt road leading to the dock.  This is one way that number of tourists is managed for this ecological-sensitive area.  We also stopped at a cashew tree and sampled the fruit that grows below the nut.

  

Once on the river boat, a unique design with a flat bottom that carries 25 to 30 people, we saw kingfishers, two Macaws, other lesser birds, a motionless crocodile and a family of spider monkeys.

  

 

  

We arrived at Pachira Lodge around 12:30, got our room assignments, and collected our luggage that came with us on the river boat.  We then lunched - rice and beans is served at nearly every meal.  After lunch, we ferried over to the town, first to the Sea Turtle Conservancy for a video on sea turtle biology, etc., a walk along the famous beach, and a spin through the town of Tortuguero.  It has no streets (and no vehicles except a few quad bikes) but lots of tourists walking the alley and the main sidewalk in town.  The town got its first public telephone in 1972, its first boat service in 1975 and its first electrical generation in 1981.   

  

The lodge is quite nice, with a swimming pool, a bar and large dining room, a spa.  We learned later that it is one of about 13 eco-based lodges that were built as a result of one man’s advocacy to save the sea turtles - a Floridian named Archie Carr.  Over several years in the 1950’s he convinced the Costa Rican government to create a national park, thereby ending logging and effectively eliminating all employment for the town.  Most people moved away but after about 15-20 years, eco-tourism developed to the point that the population is growing again.  The rusting hulks of the logging companies’ machinery still sits in the middle of town.  One more historical note, the town originally developed because it provided an abundant source of fresh meat and eggs; consequently Carr had to also convince the citizens to stop eating turtles and to start conserving them.

  

In town and at the lodge we spotted a few more birds.

  

  

And, we tried coconut water.

  

After we got back to the lodge, Betsy and I tried out the pool, which felt good.  The weather is mostly overcast ,comfortably warm, with high humidity but no rain.  It would have been perfect if the sun was out.  This side of Costa Rica averages 26 feet of precipitation; the Pacific side has only a foot or two of annual rainfall - so much for getting away for rainy Portland.

We had a lecture from a local man, learning more about how the area was initially settled, and the other historical events that have shaped it.  He was the third generation of an original settler who immigrated from Jamaica.

The day ended with dinner and an early night.